Type: Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 28 pitches, Grade VI
FA: John Middendorf, Will Oxx May 1993
Page Views: 1,959 total · 43/month
Shared By: Lance Colley on Dec 21, 2020
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

A great route on the Shield headwall following features between the routes Magic Mushroom and The Shield. Named Flight of the Albatross to commemorate Will Oxx’s base jump off the summit after the FA.

FOTA is a bit off the beaten path despite being just to the left of the ultra-classic Shield route making it a perfect route for a team that has done a decent number of El Cap routes and is looking for a little bit more adventure and a few hard pitches but still within the relative comfort of the trade route nearby. The route has two “hard pitches” the Whipper Will A3+ pitch and the Walk the Plank A4 pitch. Whipper Will is going test all the aid tricks up your sleeve while the Walk the Plank pitch will test your skills with small beaks as you imagine yourself ripping all those beak tips and riding the canoe to the ground.  

Location Suggest change

FOTA originally began from Heart ledges but most climbers today climb the route from Mammoth Terraces after climbing the Freeblast. The route starts on the first 6 pitches of Magic Mushroom then the Whipper will pitch takes off to the right. 5 independent pitches with the Walk the Plank pitch being the final obstacle puts you back on The Shield to the top.

Protection Suggest change

Your favorite El cap aid rack to 4” with an emphasize on small beaks, some folks may appreciate a 5” piece for the shield finish but it is not necessary.

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