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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 2. Southwest Face
Quo Vadis
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British A4+
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3000 ft (909 m), 22 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Jacek Czyz solo Oct-Nov 2002 |
| Page Views: | 10,638 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Jacek Czyz on Feb 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
I prepare to this climb 5 years, since climbed Sunkist in 1997. Did few surrounding routes, also few harder one (Jolly Roger, solo: ZM, Reticent Wall). More then 70% of the terrain was virgin, counting even 5 or 10' when crossing another route. I spent 30 days on the wall, 26 climbing, 4 hauling etc. 23 nights. First time start on Oct 8-th, fixing 4 pitches in 5-6 days. First continuous push 19th-26th to reach Turning Point and fixed to Mammoth Terraces. Next was final push Nov 1-st stopped by big 4-days storm on Nov 6-th (still able to fixed to MT). Real final push from Nov 12, topped during the night of November 20–21. Descent by rappel down the ascent route and Muir Wall to MT on Nov 21-22nd.
For me difficulty of cruxes on QV, JR and RW are similar. An Reticent the most technical and strenuous, on Jolly Roger the most dangerous, on Quo Vadis the most mental seeing last pro far away.
For me difficulty of cruxes on QV, JR and RW are similar. An Reticent the most technical and strenuous, on Jolly Roger the most dangerous, on Quo Vadis the most mental seeing last pro far away.
Location
Start between Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, pass Mammoth Terraces to right, crosses Muir Wall another 2 times, take Direct Finish crossing Muir the last time. Top out is even greater then on Zodiac or Dawn.
Fallowing link and posters owing to UKA Warszawa, KW Warszawa and Grzegorz Glazek Master Topo:
Quo Vadis and surroundings (clickable PDF file):
kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capi…
Color topo in English (clickable better resolution PDF file)
kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capi…
Zoomable image/topo:
mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/…
Zoomable ElCap 2002 Route Poster
mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/…
Fallowing link and posters owing to UKA Warszawa, KW Warszawa and Grzegorz Glazek Master Topo:
Quo Vadis and surroundings (clickable PDF file):
kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capi…
Color topo in English (clickable better resolution PDF file)
kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capi…
Zoomable image/topo:
mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/…
Zoomable ElCap 2002 Route Poster
mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/…
Protection
Four pitches are rated at least A4-. The 6-th pitch is the crux, involving about 35' on skyhooks plus a 15' pendulum from 2 equalized 2" hook to a crack climbed with RURPs and copperheads. Everything above weak cam and old chicken rivet from Meditterraneo (if fail 150+' fall potential).
All belay: 2-3 bolts 3/8 SS, only #10 on Turning Point: 1 old Steve' 3/8
33 new belay bolts + 20 existing
14 lead bolts 3/8 + 6 existing
51 rivets most 5/16 machine head SS, 6 Al + 24 existing
98 holes drilled total
Rack similar to JR or Reticent including many small cams and 2 #6; maaaany heads, beaks, hooks and 15 hangers (fit RP). Not too much angles and LA.
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