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Routes in Southwest Face

Freerider T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+
Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3
Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+
Salathe Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 3000 ft, 22 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Jacek Czyz solo Oct-Nov 2002
Page Views: 5,807 total, 62/month
Shared By: Jacek Czyz on Feb 25, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

I prepare to this climb 5 years, since climbed Sunkist in 1997. Did few surrounding routes, also few harder one (Jolly Roger, solo: ZM, Reticent Wall). More then 70% of the terrain was virgin, counting even 5 or 10' when crossing another route. I spent 30 days on the wall, 26 climbing, 4 hauling etc. 23 nights. First time start on Oct 8-th, fixing 4 pitches in 5-6 days. First continuous push 19th-26th to reach Turning Point and fixed to Mammoth Terraces. Next was final push Nov 1-st stopped by big 4-days storm on Nov 6-th (still able to fixed to MT). Real final push from Nov 12, topped during the night of November 20–21. Descent by rappel down the ascent route and Muir Wall to MT on Nov 21-22nd.
For me difficulty of cruxes on QV, JR and RW are similar. An Reticent the most technical and strenuous, on Jolly Roger the most dangerous, on Quo Vadis the most mental seeing last pro far away.

Location

Start between Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, pass Mammoth Terraces to right, crosses Muir Wall another 2 times, take Direct Finish crossing Muir the last time. Top out is even greater then on Zodiac or Dawn.

Fallowing link and posters owing to UKA Warszawa, KW Warszawa and Grzegorz Glazek Master Topo:

Quo Vadis and surroundings (clickable PDF file):
http://www.kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capitan/f/el_capitan__quo_vadis_and_surroundings_20_lines

Color topo in English (clickable better resolution PDF file)
http://www.kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capitan/s/quo_vadis_color_topo_in_english

Zoomable image/topo:
http://mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/elcap/

Zoomable ElCap 2002 Route Poster
http://mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/pages/06elcap.htm

Protection

Four pitches are rated at least A4-. The 6-th pitch is the crux, involving about 35' on skyhooks plus a 15' pendulum from 2 equalized 2" hook to a crack climbed with RURPs and copperheads. Everything above weak cam and old chicken rivets from Meditterraneo (if fail 150+' fall potential).
All belay: 2-3 bolts 3/8 SS, only #10 on Turning Point: 1 old Steve' 3/8
33 new belay bolts + 20 existing
14 lead bolts 3/8 + 6 existing
51 rivets most 5/16 machine head SS, 6 Al + 24 existing
98 holes drilled total

Rack similar to JR or Reticent including many small cams and 2 #6; maaaany heads, beaks, hooks and 15 hangers (fit RP). Not too much angles and LA.
Max McKee
Monterey, CA
Max McKee   Monterey, CA
A penji from equalized hooks?!?! Bad ass. May 10, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Wow... this sounds insane. May 3, 2013
Jacek Czyz
Chicago, Summit CO; PL
 
Jacek Czyz   Chicago, Summit CO; PL