Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, Grade VI|
|FA:||Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz, Jim Pettigrew, 5/76.|
|Page Views:||5,015 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
2.)Climb the corner to bolts and dowels to a two bolt belay.
3.)Nail an A3 arch to two bolts then tension right to an A2 crack. Belay at a small ledge. This section is expanding.
4.)A 5.8 A3 pitch leads through corners and bolts to a hanging belay.
Tension right to an A3 pitch to a ledge with a bolt.
5.)Follow a corner, bolts and A1 to a sling belay.
6.)An A4 pitch leads past a small bivi ledge and up to a bolt belay.
7.)An A1 pitch leads to a ledge.
8.)Another pitch of 5.8 A1 leads up and left under a roof, then move up then right to a corner system. pendulum left at the top to a sling belay.
9.)A 5.9 pitch leads to a ledge.
10.)Another 5.9 pitch leads to a belay by a bush.
11.)A 5.8 A1 pitch leads to the top of an arching corner.
12.)Follow a gully for a pitch.
13.)An A2 pitch leads to Thanksgiving Ledge.
Four more pitches lead to the top, or finish on the "West Face Route". Four pitches, all free.
It's been over 20 years since I've done this route. I strongly suggest referring to "Yosemite Climbs, Big Walls" by Don Reid, if you can find a copy.