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> B. El Capitan
> 2. Southwest Face
Mirage
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A4
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, Grade VI |
FA: | Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz, Jim Pettigrew, 5/76. |
Page Views: | 7,933 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
1.)From near the bottom of the sandy slopes of EL Cap Gully, Make three Pendulums right, to the base of a left facing corner and a bolt belay.
2.)Climb the corner to bolts and dowels to a two bolt belay.
3.)Nail an A3 arch to two bolts then tension right to an A2 crack. Belay at a small ledge. This section is expanding.
4.)A 5.8 A3 pitch leads through corners and bolts to a hanging belay.
Tension right to an A3 pitch to a ledge with a bolt.
5.)Follow a corner, bolts and A1 to a sling belay.
6.)An A4 pitch leads past a small bivi ledge and up to a bolt belay.
7.)An A1 pitch leads to a ledge.
8.)Another pitch of 5.8 A1 leads up and left under a roof, then move up then right to a corner system. pendulum left at the top to a sling belay.
9.)A 5.9 pitch leads to a ledge.
10.)Another 5.9 pitch leads to a belay by a bush.
11.)A 5.8 A1 pitch leads to the top of an arching corner.
12.)Follow a gully for a pitch.
13.)An A2 pitch leads to Thanksgiving Ledge.
Four more pitches lead to the top, or finish on the "West Face Route". Four pitches, all free.
It's been over 20 years since I've done this route. I strongly suggest referring to "Yosemite Climbs, Big Walls" by Don Reid, if you can find a copy.
2.)Climb the corner to bolts and dowels to a two bolt belay.
3.)Nail an A3 arch to two bolts then tension right to an A2 crack. Belay at a small ledge. This section is expanding.
4.)A 5.8 A3 pitch leads through corners and bolts to a hanging belay.
Tension right to an A3 pitch to a ledge with a bolt.
5.)Follow a corner, bolts and A1 to a sling belay.
6.)An A4 pitch leads past a small bivi ledge and up to a bolt belay.
7.)An A1 pitch leads to a ledge.
8.)Another pitch of 5.8 A1 leads up and left under a roof, then move up then right to a corner system. pendulum left at the top to a sling belay.
9.)A 5.9 pitch leads to a ledge.
10.)Another 5.9 pitch leads to a belay by a bush.
11.)A 5.8 A1 pitch leads to the top of an arching corner.
12.)Follow a gully for a pitch.
13.)An A2 pitch leads to Thanksgiving Ledge.
Four more pitches lead to the top, or finish on the "West Face Route". Four pitches, all free.
It's been over 20 years since I've done this route. I strongly suggest referring to "Yosemite Climbs, Big Walls" by Don Reid, if you can find a copy.
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