Typical scene below Bonsai.
Looking for steep climbing on big holds? Want a range of five star routes from 5.9 to 12d? Bonsai will serve you well. The left side of the wall is home to Kundalini (12d), Rumney's first 13, later downgraded after the discovery of a critical kneebar. Easier but always challenging at 10d is the peerless classic corner of Peer Pressure, Rumney's first sport route. The ever popular Social Outcast is a picture perfect 5.12a arete, juggy and pumpy with an exciting top out, and a great introduction to the grade if you have more endurance than power. The right side of the cliff offers more moderate climbing of equal quality, such as Masterpiece (10a), Centerpiece (10d) and War and Peace (5.9). The base of Bonsai is rimmed by tall pines, which offer shade in summer and also catch your feet as you lower off.
It is best to take the Shortcut Trail from the small parking lot. Leave the lot, head up the stairs, cross underneath Venus Wall. At the obvious boulder-strewn wash, cut uphill. This will deposit you on the right side of Bonsai.
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
21 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Bonsai
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bonsai:
Bombs Away 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Jugline 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Centerpiece 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Kundalini 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Bonsai
Centerpiece 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b NH
This is one of the best routes on this cliff (my personal favorite at the moment). The line is consistently steep and pumpy, but if you get to know it well you can dial it in and avoid the pump.You start up a steep wall with incut holds that are better than they look from the ground. You gain a ledge that's not as good as it looks. Move to the right a little here if this spot is wet. a few slopers lead to a pretty good rest. move back to the left and up good holds to the top. Careful foot work w...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: the steep "social" routes
BETA PHOTO: This will give you the general idea of where thing...
BETA PHOTO: the left side of Bonsai...
BETA PHOTO: another shot of bonsai on a cold april day...the c...
BETA PHOTO: Gotta love New England, this was Bonsai on April 9...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 11, 2008
there was hardly and damage to the climbing at rumney due to the recent fire... however i did see one thing that changed... there was a trad route that was rarely done and not really worth doing to the left of pretzel logic... it was decribed as "rambling up broken rock" well if it was broken rock before now its really broken... a large tree fell across it and pretty much removed it from the cliff... im glad it didnt crush anything too fun...
By S. Neoh
Sep 4, 2011
A number of youngsters told me today that there is a nearly independent line between Masterpiece and War and Peace. It eventually merges into the War and Peace at the top and that is how they have been top-roping it. Someone has even done some cleaning of the 'route'. I was told it goes at 10d/11a. Does anyone know more about this? I was told that other than the few shared holds with War and Peace at the top, this climb shares no hold with War and Peace or Masterpiece. I might give it a run the next time I am at the crag.