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Looking for steep climbing on big holds? Want a range of five star routes from 5.9 to 12d? Bonsai will serve you well. The left side of the wall is home to Kundalini (12d), Rumney's first 13, later downgraded after the discovery of a critical kneebar. Easier but always challenging at 10d is the peerless classic corner of Peer Pressure, Rumney's first sport route. The ever popular Social Outcast is a picture perfect 5.12a arete, juggy and pumpy with an exciting top out, and a great introduction to the grade if you have more endurance than power. The right side of the cliff offers more moderate climbing of equal quality, such as Masterpiece (10a), Centerpiece (10d) and War and Peace (5.9). The base of Bonsai is rimmed by tall pines, which offer shade in summer and also catch your feet as you lower off.
It is best to take the Shortcut Trail from the small parking lot. Leave the lot, head up the stairs, cross underneath Venus Wall. At the obvious boulder-strewn wash, cut uphill. This will deposit you on the right side of Bonsai.
20 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bonsai:
War and Peace 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Masterpiece 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Jugline 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport
Peer Pressure 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Centerpiece 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Social Climber 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
A Slice Of Life 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Social Outcast 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Social Distortion 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
The Noodle 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 70'
Kundalini 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Bonsai
Centerpiece 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b NH : Rumney : Bonsai
This is one of the best routes on this cliff (my personal favorite at the moment). The line is consistently steep and pumpy, but if you get to know it well you can dial it in and avoid the pump.You start up a steep wall with incut holds that are better than they look from the ground. You gain a ledge that's not as good as it looks. Move to the right a little here if this spot is wet. a few slopers lead to a pretty good rest. move back to the left and up good holds to the top. Careful foot work w...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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