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Harding's Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 435'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954.
Page Views: 4,002
Submitted By: Blitzo on Feb 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Hardings Chimney P1


This Sugarloaf classic climbs the chimney and crack system to the summit of the south pinnacle.
Climb a ramp and blocky rock up the right side of The Fang, to an alcove.
Climb a 5.7 chimney to a good belay.
Move up and left to another chimney and follow it to a belay ledge in the South Notch.
From the north end of the notch, climb a 5.7 arch to it's top. Turn the corner and follow a trough to a cave beneath the summit.
Continue to the summit.


Pro to 4".

Comments on Harding's Chimney Add Comment
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By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I've always wanted to lead this, but never did because of the horror stories I've heard of this climb. As a result, I always climbed Scheister instead. Now, after leading the notorious chimney pitch, I'd say if you are confident in chimneys then it's not all that bad. In fact, I found it easier than Scheister's chimney. There is always a good edge or a knob for your hands or feet right where you need it. In fact, I found the pitch after the chimney to be the hardest one on the climb.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bishop
Dec 16, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Probably R rated, the chimney is low angle after the crux bulge, but there is no gear for the rest of the pitch, if you were to blow it then a hospital trip would be likely.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Feb 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

I thought the crux was passing the bulge after turning the roof. Unless you bring a#4 Big Bro, there is no pro after the roof pitons until the anchor (apart from a tiny cam in a thin flake near the very end).

With a well-placed #4 Big Bro, climb is probably PG13, without a #4 Big Bro, it seemed like an R, although the climbing does get easier and more secure as you get higher. I found it best to change sides just above the crux, which was a tad spooky to do.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 15, 2013

I led this years ago without any big pro. If you're confident in your chimney technique then you'll no doubt enjoy this climb. If not.......
By EJoe
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 19, 2016

Valley Giant #9 protects the bulge. The climb goes from R to PG as you'd have to actually try to fall out of the chimney once you're a couple body lengths above the VG9. Set a lower belay so the rope doesn't push the cam into the crack.
By Nick_Cov
From: Truckee, CA
Apr 30, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Fun and worth doing, I preferred it to Scheister. The run out section is very secure as long as you are comfortable in a chimney or squeeze. Gear: Doubles of C4s to #3. Leave anything bigger at home, there is nowhere to place a 4 or 5 in the run out chimney and it is not needed on the other pitches, it will only get in the way in the chimneys.

P1 5.6 easy blocky climbing up to a stance.

P2 5.8 (crux) Chimney up to 2 shitty pitons. You can back them up with a purple C4 above the higher piton, pull through the roof into a fun squeeze with good edges. The climbing is much easier if you stay on the outside, however it is less secure. Climb this past a false belay up to a fun 5.6/5.7 low angle crack with a small squeeze on top.

P3 5.6 continue up scheister of a different variation

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