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Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Hicks, Larry Morris, 1971.
Page Views: 2,036 total · 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jan 16, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Just right of "East Chimney", climb a left facing corner, then knobs (5.8) to a two bolt belay.
Climb face to the top.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pro to 2", slings for knobs.

Photos

426
 
426  
 
2nd pitch pretty runout, short third pitch unless you string it together.

I thought Lurch was classic. Mar 12, 2007
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.8 R
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.8 R
The two-bolt anchor for this route has chains and can be rapped with a 60 m rope (if the second pitch looks uninspiring...which it kinda does).

After topping out the roof, traverse slightly right, clip a (somewhat older) bolt down low, and finish 20' of face climbing to the anchors by going either just right or just left of the bolt (I went right). I found this section to be the crux mentally of the route as there is no pro to be had and a bad, bad fall awaits (i.e. free-fall onto the slab below). The knobs available are fairly good for hands and feet but not really that sling-able and seemed unlikely to stay roped during any real fall, so why bother. The runout here is essentially PG13 in distance on delicate climbing ground but R in consequences.

Anyhow, the leader should have a pretty cool head for this one!!!

Lurch is a very nice route and a great mind-fuck at moments. Oct 11, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Mind the rope drag on this one. When I did it, I'd screwed myself so badly with it in the lower crack and coming over the roof I had to pre-yank out enough slack to make my next moves. I think a fall would definitely have been in the R category at that point. Mar 5, 2011
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.8 R
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.8 R
Fun route, but pretty heady in spots. The second pitch is super run out. It has been years but I remember possible one solid piece 10' out from the anchor and then only one or two very marginal knob tie-offs (one of them slipped of after I had climbed above it) and a crack 6' from the top-out. Felt like a good Toulumne style lead. May 8, 2013

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