Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|Page Views:||1,527 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Many climbing areas are closed along highways 50 and 88 as the fast moving Caldor Fire spreads (as of Aug 30, 2021). Read the Mountain Project forum discussion above, and the Cal Fire incidents map here fire.ca.gov/incidents/ for latest map and information. Be safe mountain neighbors!
Starts on a flake, where one could place small trad pro to keep it well protected. It leaves this soon, follows low profile knobs up and somewhat right - just follow the bolt line. The hardest moves are naturally right after each bolt (four total). The crux follows crossing a horizontal crack, and higher up, a tiny roof. The angle gradually lessens until the anchor is on a comfortable slab - but this make rope drag unavoidable if toproping. The anchor is shared with Swallow Tail (Swallow's Tale?).
We thought the crux might be 5.10d or 5.11a. Or maybe that's another route I saw nearby online called the Wanker 5.11a?
After climbing, rap off anchors and chains shared with all three adjacent routes. Exactly 30 meters brings you to the rap anchors/chains at the bottom of Swallow Tail. It's a short rap from here back to trail level, unless you're very comfortable down climbing the 5.easy terrain below this.