Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||868 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionA short low 5th class scramble gets you a large ledge system, the start of the route (as well as the bolted 5.9 to the left, and 5.11ish crack in a dihedral to the right).
Starts on a flake, where one could place small trad pro to keep it well protected. It leaves this soon, follows low profile knobs up and somewhat right - just follow the bolt line. The hardest moves are naturally right after each bolt (four total). The crux follows crossing a horizontal crack, and higher up, a tiny roof. The angle gradually lessens until the anchor is on a comfortable slab - but this make rope drag unavoidable if toproping. The anchor is shared with Swallow Tail (Swallow's Tale?).
I took the name, grade and FA from another place online - please correct if I have them wrong. I thought I remembered this being Jerry's route, so maybe his name also belongs there. We thought the crux might be 5.10d or 5.11a. Or maybe that's another route I saw nearby online called the Wanker 5.11a?
LocationRight side of the East Face, past the East Chimney, Morticia and Lurch. The routes here start a short easy climb/scramble above the trail, and aren't apparent if you're not watching for them.
After climbing, rap off anchors and chains shared with all three adjacent routes. Exactly 30 meters brings you to the rap anchors/chains at the bottom of Swallow Tail. It's a short rap from here back to trail level, unless you're very comfortable down climbing the 5.easy terrain below this.
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