Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 1,527 total · 14/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Caldor Fire closures, August - September 2021 Details


A short low 5th class scramble gets you a large ledge system, the start of the route (as well as the bolted 5.9 to the left, and 5.11ish crack in a dihedral to the right).

Starts on a flake, where one could place small trad pro to keep it well protected. It leaves this soon, follows low profile knobs up and somewhat right - just follow the bolt line. The hardest moves are naturally right after each bolt (four total). The crux follows crossing a horizontal crack, and higher up, a tiny roof. The angle gradually lessens until the anchor is on a comfortable slab - but this make rope drag unavoidable if toproping. The anchor is shared with Swallow Tail (Swallow's Tale?).

We thought the crux might be 5.10d or 5.11a. Or maybe that's another route I saw nearby online called the Wanker 5.11a?


Right side of the East Face, past the East Chimney, Morticia and Lurch. The routes here start a short easy climb/scramble above the trail, and aren't apparent if you're not watching for them.

After climbing, rap off anchors and chains shared with all three adjacent routes. Exactly 30 meters brings you to the rap anchors/chains at the bottom of Swallow Tail. It's a short rap from here back to trail level, unless you're very comfortable down climbing the 5.easy terrain below this.


Four bolts, a couple of small cracks for trad pro, a couple of knobs and horns big enough to sling.


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