Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 952 total · 13/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

A short low 5th class scramble gets you a large ledge system, the start of the route (as well as the bolted 5.9 to the left, and 5.11ish crack in a dihedral to the right).

Starts on a flake, where one could place small trad pro to keep it well protected. It leaves this soon, follows low profile knobs up and somewhat right - just follow the bolt line. The hardest moves are naturally right after each bolt (four total). The crux follows crossing a horizontal crack, and higher up, a tiny roof. The angle gradually lessens until the anchor is on a comfortable slab - but this make rope drag unavoidable if toproping. The anchor is shared with Swallow Tail (Swallow's Tale?).

We thought the crux might be 5.10d or 5.11a. Or maybe that's another route I saw nearby online called the Wanker 5.11a?

Location

Right side of the East Face, past the East Chimney, Morticia and Lurch. The routes here start a short easy climb/scramble above the trail, and aren't apparent if you're not watching for them.

After climbing, rap off anchors and chains shared with all three adjacent routes. Exactly 30 meters brings you to the rap anchors/chains at the bottom of Swallow Tail. It's a short rap from here back to trail level, unless you're very comfortable down climbing the 5.easy terrain below this.

Protection

Four bolts, a couple of small cracks for trad pro, a couple of knobs and horns big enough to sling.

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
My partner and I agreed, this is a high quality addition to the Loaf. Micro cams for the initial seam, then placed a yellow/green offset alien and yellow offset nut at the horizontal break just after the second bolt (a number two or three camalot may work in the larger pod). A number one camalot fit behind the route's one detracting feature in a rotten flake (perhaps placing one more bolt would be in order to avoid this potential hazard?).

Thoughtful face climbing with interesting balance moves and some high foot mantle action typify the route. Much longer than it appears from the ground!

The scramble up is one you may or may not want rope for. I didn't want to down climb it though, so the rap anchor is appreciated! Jan 11, 2014
This and Swallows Tale are very good quality routes and much longer than they appear from the ground (90 feet). The small roof takes a yellow alien quite well This route, Swallows Tale and The Wanker are all accessed off the East Ledge which is bathed in morning sun for several hours. All 3 share a large 3 bolt anchor and can all 3 can be TR'd by leading any one. From the summit there is also an anchor (somewhat out of site under a ledge) that allows a rap to the main anchor for all three. Dec 29, 2017