Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: FFA Mark Hudon and Max Jones, 1979
Page Views: 3,310 total · 25/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 13, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Caldor Fire closures, August - September 2021 Details


Captian Fingers follows a slabby finger crack up to the beautiful overhanging head wall. The crux is a very thin right leaning crack the splits the lichen covered face.

Climb up the finger crack, 5.10, following it right as it becomes a series of flakes and then pinches out. Do a few tricky moves 5.10+, clip a pin, and get established at the no hands stance below the crux. Place some gear, crimp hard, and try to stick the sequence to the midway rest.

Recover as best you can for a final section of strenuous under-clinging/laybacking until confronted with a final sequence of face holds. Pull over the lip, shout with victory and relax since you didn't whip onto any of the brass nuts that protect the route!


This climb is located to the right of Dominion (which can be climbed to setup a TR). There are are two bolts that can be used for an anchor. Long sings are useful to extend the anchor over the lip. There is a separate rappel station on the same ledge 10 feet to the right. A 70m rope is best for rappeling.


The bottom section takes a variety of cams up to .75 camalot. A double set from .5" to 2" is sufficient. The 30 foot crux section takes good gear but it is very strenuous to place. Brass nuts (RP's) and offsets (HB) are suggested in addition to a .5 camalot and one or two very small cams (Black Alien).