Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: FFA Mark Hudon and Max Jones, 1979
Page Views: 2,425 total · 23/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 13, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Captian Fingers follows a slabby finger crack up to the beautiful overhanging head wall. The crux is a very thin right leaning crack the splits the lichen covered face.

Climb up the finger crack, 5.10, following it right as it becomes a series of flakes and then pinches out. Do a few tricky moves 5.10+, clip a pin, and get established at the no hands stance below the crux. Place some gear, crimp hard, and try to stick the sequence to the midway rest.

Recover as best you can for a final section of strenuous under-clinging/laybacking until confronted with a final sequence of face holds. Pull over the lip, shout with victory and relax since you didn't whip onto any of the brass nuts that protect the route!

Location

This climb is located to the right of Dominion (which can be climbed to setup a TR). There are are two bolts that can be used for an anchor. Long sings are useful to extend the anchor over the lip. There is a separate rappel station on the same ledge 10 feet to the right. A 70m rope is best for rappeling.

Protection

The bottom section takes a variety of cams up to .75 camalot. A double set from .5" to 2" is sufficient. The 30 foot crux section takes good gear but it is very strenuous to place. Brass nuts (RP's) and offsets (HB) are suggested in addition to a .5 camalot and one or two very small cams (Black Alien).

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