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Routes in East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: FFA: Jim Orey, M. Vincent, 1971
Page Views: 1,475 total · 10/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jan 31, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Fang is a small pinnacle to the right of "Bolee Gold".
Boulder up onto the ramp of "Bolee Gold", then climb a 5.9 finger crack, and enter a chimney, forming the left side of the pinnacle.
Rappel from bolts or continue up "Harding's Chimney".

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

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vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
The crux is working up the short crack at the start. Solid finger locks lead to a couple insecure pods. Jam those real good , try to get a toe in the thin crack , and reach high for a solid hand jam . The short chimney is fun and you make an airy exit onto easy face climbing up to the anchor.

You can TR various bolted routes from the anchor.

It is a fun climb. Apr 26, 2009
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.9
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.9
Climbed it today, a bat lives in there. Heard strange noises, cross-referenced with youtube, confirmed the noises i heard squeaking at me were a bat.

Super fun route. No sighting of the bat, but I suspect he lives in the 4" crack in the back of the chimney... Jan 18, 2013

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