Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,460 total · 98/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


108 Opinions

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Description

100 feet uphill from "The Fang" is this thin crack/flake. Climb this to it's end.
Another 5.7 pitch leads to the Eastern Terrace.
A walk left takes you to the "Grand Illusion".

Protection

Pro to 1.5".
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
outstanding thin crack with short reachy crux on poor feet. I used aliens from green to orange, and a blue-green hybrid is a good crux piece. Feb 6, 2007
Dennis
Boston, MA
 
Dennis   Boston, MA
 
Gorgeous crack. There are several good small nut placements. Tried the face to the left afterwards. Starts with fun mantels and then blanks out to super thin face climbing. Spit me off..... but fun! Aug 20, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
The face to the left is "Pinch a Loaf" FA Petch '04 or '05 I think.

I gave it a feeble attempt one day. Petch came walking by and said it was shoe and temperature dependant. Unfortunately for me, it seems to be talent and skill dependant as well. Feb 19, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
A beautiful line. This is a great route to push your limit, since you can get in gear just about everywhere. Load up on the finger-size pieces if you really want to sew it up. It was a bit wet yesterday (2/27/09). Feb 28, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10d
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10d
Area classic. One definitive crux, for feet at the crux step high on the face and use the micro edge or leverage off crack edge with right foot. Don't forget to use the good foot out to the left once you get up.

Either way, the crux is solid .10d, yet only one or two moves.

Great gear the whole way up and solid finger locks! Mar 25, 2009