Connect with Facebook
Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face
|
Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
|
|
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
|
|
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Unknown, FFA: Tony Yaniro, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 15,517 total · 111/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was probably the hardest climb in the world.
This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13b/c. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in some style in 1977, but is generally considered 5.13a.
This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious. Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go for it!
This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13b/c. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in some style in 1977, but is generally considered 5.13a.
This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious. Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go for it!
Morrison, CO
In regards to Phoenix being the first 5.13, apparently Jardine "did" the route in 77, but he never redpointed it. His idea of "working" a route (a term he apparently coined?) was to get to a point where he could do all the moves in 3 or 4 sections between hangs. Once he achieved that, he moved on. In the case of the Phoenix, he TR-ed it free, and he lead it with 3 hangs. Obviously this would be considered totally invalid today, but back in those days any hang-dogging in the valley was completely cheating, so this style wasn't thought of as any different then hang-dogging on the route for weeks and then ulimately redpointing -- it was all considired "invalid" by traditionalists.
Apparently John Long did some route at Taquiz called "Hangover" in 1976. Long gave it the grade 5.13, and apparently it has never been down-rated, so perhaps that was the first 5.13.
Also, prior to this Pete Cleveland (of Needles fame) TR-ed two routes at Devil's Lake that are now thought to have been 5.13.
Grand Illusion was probably the first route harder than 5.13 'minus'. Jun 1, 2007
Santa Cruz, CA
Pretty big acheivement anyway, like some other pinkpoint FAs-Jumbo Love, etc etc etc. Always that much more rad when done in better style. Nov 3, 2011
Oakland CA
Sacramento, CA
youtube.com/watch?v=ma0LVAG… Jun 9, 2016
Boulder, CO