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Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith, 1987
Page Views: 900 total · 7/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the bolted face just to the right of Farley. They share an anchor, so it is a good toprope after leading farley. Thin and sustained climbing up edges and tiny knobs upto a groove, then to a couple big kobs below the anchors.

Location

just right of farley, left of taurus. shares bolted anchor with farley.

Protection

bolts

Photos

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An easy route to fall off time and again. Crux is thin, smeary and sequential and hard to have wired. Probably 12a.
Original route went hard right at the anchor for 20 feet to a bolt and then up another 35 feet to sling anchors (this section about 10c) and was very run out. Joel Moore retroed the route in the 90's adding bolts and shortening it.
From the anchor a line diagonaling straight up/right over knobs to a new anchor was planned but not completed. Dec 28, 2017
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Thanks for the input. I put this thing in after I tried it in the sun and got totally smoked, some moves felt impossible. I tried it again last year and while I did not send, it felt much more reasonable, and I think you are probably correct with the .11d grade. I'll make the change. Dec 21, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11d
This thing is damn hard slab. I would love to call this 5.12 if not for the fact that I have been on 11b slabs in the Valley that are a kick in the pants like this thing is.

11d/12a is probably fair, but this ain't no sport climb. I could be swayed to upping my grade to 12a if others felt that way, but as it seems, very few folks have given this a grade. Dec 20, 2010