Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith, 1987
Page Views: 979 total · 7/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the bolted face just to the right of Farley. They share an anchor, so it is a good toprope after leading farley. Thin and sustained climbing up edges and tiny knobs upto a groove, then to a couple big kobs below the anchors.

Location

just right of farley, left of taurus. shares bolted anchor with farley.

Protection

bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11d
This thing is damn hard slab. I would love to call this 5.12 if not for the fact that I have been on 11b slabs in the Valley that are a kick in the pants like this thing is.

11d/12a is probably fair, but this ain't no sport climb. I could be swayed to upping my grade to 12a if others felt that way, but as it seems, very few folks have given this a grade. Dec 20, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11d
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11d
Thanks for the input. I put this thing in after I tried it in the sun and got totally smoked, some moves felt impossible. I tried it again last year and while I did not send, it felt much more reasonable, and I think you are probably correct with the .11d grade. I'll make the change. Dec 21, 2010
An easy route to fall off time and again. Crux is thin, smeary and sequential and hard to have wired. Probably 12a.
Original route went hard right at the anchor for 20 feet to a bolt and then up another 35 feet to sling anchors (this section about 10c) and was very run out. Joel Moore retroed the route in the 90's adding bolts and shortening it.
From the anchor a line diagonaling straight up/right over knobs to a new anchor was planned but not completed. Dec 28, 2017