Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Hudon and Max Jones, 1977
Page Views: 5,647 total, 43/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Feb 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Taurus is an outstanding thin crack to lieback. The crux comes right off the ground, moving on good locks with smear feet. You can get a good nut, then small but solid gear. Pull the .11b crux to a stance. Then, climb the finger crack up, do some strenuous .10 lieback underclinging out left. Finish up a mantel and walk up the ramp to the chains.

This route was soloed by first ascentionist Mark Hudon in the late 70s, so get after it!

Location

This is just uphill from Farley, and just downhill from The Fracture.

Protection

Gear to 2".
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
soo bad ass.. stomped through the snow. Solo aided/mix free climbed the route.
bomber gear and some tricky nuts down low at the crux, but WAAY doable and amazing. not a soul in sight.. Feb 27, 2017
cdavey
  5.11a
cdavey  
  5.11a
Holy smokies this was an awesome route. Crazy fun finger locks to start with amazing underclinging/liebacking to finish. Climb this! Jul 13, 2015
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.11b
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.11b
Sweet route. The crux is really similar to the fracture; it's a big reach for a good fingerlock. But yeah, a good bit harder in my opinion and as the grade suggest. I'd be really interested to see/hear how a shorter person does this. Placing gear from the two side by side fingerlocks before the crux move took some serious effort! After that, yeah, it just makes sense to go to the jug and there was no way I could have stopped if I wanted to. May 26, 2013
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11a
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11a
IMO, as good as The Fracture, and not too much harder. The gear is a little bit trickier to place, but solid. After the crux, the difficulty backs off significantly but remains challenging and is super fun.

Having some stretch won't hurt on the lower crux, but it certainly isn't a requirement. Apr 12, 2011
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
I toproped this climb once first and then led it. I'm only 5'1'' and thought it was going to be reachy but it wasn't at all. I also placed a purple metolius TCU but placed a green alien in lieu of a nut and then gunned for the jug. Classic climb. Apr 25, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Ditto... this route is fantastic, and sustained. Climbing the crux clean doesn't mean you'll style the rest of the line, as the moves stay decidedly un-trivial till the "jug" holds after the undercling/layback.

Protect the opening moves with a nut and a small cam (I used a purple Metolius Master Cam; it worked splendidly). After that, punch it to a good ledge and get ready for the 10+ business.

Awesome... May 13, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a PG13
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a PG13
My first .11 flash on gear.

Fantastic route, technical and smeary crux in the first 20 feet with bomber finger locks in the pods, but the real crux is placing gear.

Crux section takes a medium sized nut and a blue Alien, then shoot for a jug at the good rest 20 feet up.

Second section is sustained .10+, sick liebacking and underclinging. You get an okay rest to place gear when the lieback turns to undercling. After that, forget the gear and shoot for the top before the pump clock runs out.

Being tall makes this route easier. At 6'4", I'd give this route .10+/11-

Mar 25, 2009