Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Aidan McGuire
Page Views: 3,447 total · 24/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

Start in left facing corner, same as Lurch. Lurch pulls the roof on the right, Morticia traverses left, pulls roof, and then continues up past 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Located in the alcove on the east face. Shares same start as Lurch, is a little uphill from Dominion.

Protection

nuts, cams to 1", quickdraws
daniel c
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
daniel c   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Climbing goes 5.6 until the roof. Roof move seemed easier than 5.9 to me, perhaps 5.8. Protect roof move with micro cam. Aug 23, 2009
BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
I followed on this and decided to go directly over the center of the roof. That's a fun move and probably about 5.9. It's unfortunate that the first bolt is so far to the left as it means that leading it this way requires a slightly thin left traverse and precarious leaning over to clip the bolt. Very fun route. May 2, 2013
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
 
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
 
A micro-cam and very long sling (I brought neither) would be great for the roof. Still super fun though. Apr 18, 2014
a bolt added to replace the "microcam" at the left traverse would be a good addition. Or perhaps a solid piton? Dec 29, 2017