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Routes in East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: Michael Creel and friends (1990?)
Page Views: 1,425 total · 24/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Nov 22, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The difficulties start at the first bolt and rarely give up until you clip the anchors. Thin reachy moves, stemming, balance, power. Bird man will test your face climbing and footwork techniques and let you know exactly where you stand... or don't. This route is without a doubt one of the best face pitches in the Tahoe area.

Location

Starts up a thin 5.11 crack to bolts, crosses over the Fang and continues up the face above.

Protection

Cams, Thin to .5". Many bolts.

Photos

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This route was bolted on rap by myself and a couple of others who may prefer to remain in obscurity, around 1990. There is a difficult clip low down, because a big knob broke off on an early ascent. In retrospect, the route may have been better if the belay were a little lower down. Dec 19, 2013
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
Does anyone know if it's possible to rap off this with one 70m rope? Nov 12, 2017
Brilliant! One of the absolute best face routes in the Tahoe area.
There are 5 cruxes 10+ or harder though the crux is probably 11c with modern rubber. A long continuous challenge where you loose sight and comfort of your belayer as you find yourself launching into yet another tricky move above a bolt with 100+ feet of rope out. A proud and heady onsight for any 5.11 climber.
Though not convenient, the anchor is at the end of the difficulties right where it should be. Dec 7, 2017
Thanks Aidan! Don't know if I will attempt this soon, but slowly going up the grades. Dec 22, 2017
Pretty sure a 70m will get to the ramp that is the start of Bolee Gold. This can be easily down climbed.
2 ropes are needed for TR of Birdman
A 60 m rap can be worked down and right to the top of Talking Heads and then rap to ground
Also, from the next to last belay for Bolee Gold a short rap can be done to the Birdman top anchor to set up a Birdman TR Dec 28, 2017
DylanJK
Berkeley, CA
 
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
 
What are some of the other best routes in the area of similar grade and style of climbing? May 10, 2018

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