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Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart, Jim Orey 1972
Page Views: 5,096 total, 41/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Fun and easy crack climbing leads to a groove with a thin crack and tricky gear. Surmount that with some layback moves and a couple of stem rests. Above that climb the low angle slab via flakes that lead either left towards Grand Illusion or right towards the gully, depending on your anticipated descent route.

Location

On the right side of the east face below the large roof of Grand Illusion, just left of a gully. Climb some blocks up and left to a left facing corner/crack system to the crux dihedral. There is a nice looking crack left of this that also leads to the crux dihedral.

We descended from two beefy bolts up and left from the top of the climb and down and right from Grand Illusion. You can reach the ground with two ropes or you can get down with one rope via a sling transfer at the Telesis anchors. There are also anchors up and right from Dominion that, according the the guide, you can rap from with a 60m rope.

Protection

All trad except for the anchors. 1 set nuts from brass to 1". At least one set cams from micro to blue Camalot. You can use a bigger cam in the wide crack, but it's easy there.
fivefun
 
fivefun  
 
We easily got down in one rap with a 70m using the rap station on the back wall. Apr 6, 2017
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.9
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.9
Gear: Single set of cams from .5" to 3" and medium stoppers will sew the crack up.

Rap: One rap with a single 60m rope from the chains (3 of them) to the right of the route, or two raps from the anchors to the left of the route.

This felt like benchmark Yosemite 5.9, but YMMV. Sep 17, 2013
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Beware! A 70m does not exactly get you to the ground from the anchors to the left. You can rap to a ledge 20' off the deck and down climb 5.6 to get to the ground. Apr 29, 2012
A little soft for the grade, I thought; definitely a great line. From the rap anchor to the right, a 60m gets you to an easy scramble in the gully on the right. Apr 15, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
I also found the same thing. Easy to start, then a few 5.8/5.9 moves to get into the steeper corner with the thin crack, which increases in difficulty the higher you climb. An acrobatic type of lieback gets you out of the corner when the crack peters out. For me, 10a is a very fair rating for the crack in the corner.

Though, I must say the first time I climbed this I was straining at the crux thinking "How in the hell is this thing 10a?" until I spotted the glorious little knob out right. Aug 29, 2011
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Great climb. Although I agree with the 10a rating, there are great rests to place gear throughout the climb so it feels less committing. Apr 19, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
There is a less-traveled left variation that follows an right arching crack before joining the crux. It starts a bit rotten, but then there's quality climbing in the 8-9 range with some great wide hands jamming. I'm told it's more sustained than the usual path, but I haven't yet done both to compare. It probably adds 15' or more to the climb too. Should get done more, imo.

I found the crux on this climb to be quality.

edit: I climbed the usual path of this route and it was pretty good. Also, probably as sustained as the left variation. I would recommend either approach. In fact, you must do both! Feb 6, 2011
W. Spaller  
 
Very reasonable for the grade and includes some awesome hand jams and lie back moves. Fun route and worth doing. Nov 17, 2007