Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart, Jim Orey 1972
Page Views: 5,717 total · 42/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Fun and easy crack climbing leads to a groove with a thin crack and tricky gear. Surmount that with some layback moves and a couple of stem rests. Above that climb the low angle slab via flakes that lead either left towards Grand Illusion or right towards the gully, depending on your anticipated descent route.

Location

On the right side of the east face below the large roof of Grand Illusion, just left of a gully. Climb some blocks up and left to a left facing corner/crack system to the crux dihedral. There is a nice looking crack left of this that also leads to the crux dihedral.

We descended from two beefy bolts up and left from the top of the climb and down and right from Grand Illusion. You can reach the ground with two ropes or you can get down with one rope via a sling transfer at the Telesis anchors. There are also anchors up and right from Dominion that, according the the guide, you can rap from with a 60m rope.

Protection

All trad except for the anchors. 1 set nuts from brass to 1". At least one set cams from micro to blue Camalot. You can use a bigger cam in the wide crack, but it's easy there.
W. Spaller  
 
Very reasonable for the grade and includes some awesome hand jams and lie back moves. Fun route and worth doing. Nov 17, 2007
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
There is a less-traveled left variation that follows an right arching crack before joining the crux. It starts a bit rotten, but then there's quality climbing in the 8-9 range with some great wide hands jamming. I'm told it's more sustained than the usual path, but I haven't yet done both to compare. It probably adds 15' or more to the climb too. Should get done more, imo.

I found the crux on this climb to be quality.

edit: I climbed the usual path of this route and it was pretty good. Also, probably as sustained as the left variation. I would recommend either approach. In fact, you must do both! Feb 6, 2011
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Great climb. Although I agree with the 10a rating, there are great rests to place gear throughout the climb so it feels less committing. Apr 19, 2011
Josh Cameron
California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   California
  5.10a
I also found the same thing. Easy to start, then a few 5.8/5.9 moves to get into the steeper corner with the thin crack, which increases in difficulty the higher you climb. An acrobatic type of lieback gets you out of the corner when the crack peters out. For me, 10a is a very fair rating for the crack in the corner.

Though, I must say the first time I climbed this I was straining at the crux thinking "How in the hell is this thing 10a?" until I spotted the glorious little knob out right. Aug 29, 2011
A little soft for the grade, I thought; definitely a great line. From the rap anchor to the right, a 60m gets you to an easy scramble in the gully on the right. Apr 15, 2012
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Beware! A 70m does not exactly get you to the ground from the anchors to the left. You can rap to a ledge 20' off the deck and down climb 5.6 to get to the ground. Apr 29, 2012
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
  5.9
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
  5.9
Gear: Single set of cams from .5" to 3" and medium stoppers will sew the crack up.

Rap: One rap with a single 60m rope from the chains (3 of them) to the right of the route, or two raps from the anchors to the left of the route.

This felt like benchmark Yosemite 5.9, but YMMV. Sep 17, 2013
Will M.
Oakland
 
Will M.   Oakland
 
We easily got down in one rap with a 70m using the rap station on the back wall. Apr 6, 2017
For added challenge start in the right crack that flares and then arches left to join Dominion after the easy climbing (probably 10a). This makes for a much more sustained experience. The anchor down the east chimney was replaced by myself many years ago and the prior anchor was found to have 1 bolt held by about a 1 mm of rotten steel, meaning that hundreds had rapped off one 1/4 button head! The belay ancho up and left (usually used) allows for a rap to the 1st pitch of Telesis and easy TR set up or allows for TR of the second pitch of Telesis (Swamp Thing variation) which is well worth doing and about 10c Dec 28, 2017
sippu rout
San Francisco, CA
 
sippu rout   San Francisco, CA
 
Hello all! We climbed this beautiful climb on saturday 4/21 and I probably left behind my #4 BD cam on the climb in the flaring section of the crack or dropped at the base while I was packing :( if anyone finds it and would help me reunite with it, I would be very grateful.

btw, the anchor on the right did not have any rap rings so we left a couple of biners behind, when we lowered. Don't know if it was always like this. any ideas? Apr 23, 2018