Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aidan Maguire and Jerry Klatt, 2011
Page Views: 2,811 total · 32/month
Shared By: aaron hope on Feb 5, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is located just to the right of Lurch.

The first pitch is easy, 30 foot 5.4 scramble to a large ledge. There are two bomber black bolts with black chains that mark the beginning of the second pitch (you can see them from the ground).

The second pitch climbs fun knobby terrain terrain, mostly 5.7-5.8 with a distinct 5.9 crux. It starts off following a very small seam with knobs up and to the right. Follow the bolts to another set of anchors with chains (or continue to the top via easy 5.6 climbing protected by one more bolt). From anchor to anchor it's just at 100 feet.

Mostly protected by bolts, supplemented by the occasional gear placement. All in all, a well protected route. The initial 5.6 seam can be protected with a mirco cam 00 Purple C3. Above that there are placements for gear from 0.4 Grey Camalot to a #1 Red Camalot.

Note: you can easily reach the chains at the beginning of the second pitch by rapping from the top of Morticia with a 60 meter rope. Makes for a great double route combo.


aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Was Aiden with Jerry on the first ascent? He was the one who told me about the route. I'd add him but I don't know his last name. Anyone? Mar 6, 2012
C Miller   CA  
Aidan Maguire is his name. Mar 6, 2012
Soloed first pitch and led 2nd. Tricky to get in good pro at first if you do not have the right size (tiny). Climbing is really solid though. Well protected after that. Crux seemed to be the move around the bulge which has a bolt right before it and a spot for a #1 BD cam..although if you fall you will hit a ledge and it will hurt most likely. Great climb. Apr 16, 2012
Great climb. Requires a couple of pieces of very small pro at the start but on easy ground. Jerry and I developed this and the 2 routes immediately right a few years ago well after Sugarloaf was "climbed out". The East Ledge can be accessed by solo or lead 5.4. It can also be scrambled up/down via a short chimney 100 feet right and up hill This route, Monkey Flower and The Wanker are all accessed off the East Ledge which is bathed in morning sun for several hours. All 3 share a large 3 bolt anchor and can all 3 can be TR'd by leading any one. From the summit there is also an anchor (somewhat out of site under a ledge) that allows a rap to the main anchor for all three. Once climbed the 5.4 approach pitch is rapped back to the ground. Perfect for crisp sunny winter mornings Dec 29, 2017