Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Paul Crawford and Jay Smith, 1987
Page Views: 1,706 total · 13/month
Shared By: W. Spaller on Nov 17, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This thin delicate slab that will test your balance and footwork. The difficult sections are in the beginning (1st and 2nd bolts) and the upper fourth of the route. Because there are long runouts between some of the bolts leading this route is a serious undertaking. Do not lead this route unless you are totally solid at the grade! Great toprope after leading Dominion (10a). Some of the smaller holds on the route are loose and I knocked down some small rocks while climbing. The belayer should have a helmet for this reason.

Location

Bolted face just uphill of the Fracture.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

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caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Great face climbing with several distinct cruxes. Knob climbing up high was really cool!! Great TR after doing Dominion. Apr 14, 2008
Drewsky  
Leading this route is not so bad, but it probably *almost* gets an 'R'. I remember one foot/hand match move on the upper part that felt pretty committing; otherwise it seemed relatively safe. I don't think you ever get more than 10 feet above the bolts until the relatively easier top part (5.9ish, fairly runout). Jul 6, 2008
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Does anyone know the first ascent story with this thing? I'm curious why the first half of the climb is so well protected on both 5.10 and 5.11 terrain, but the last half seems to be runnout at very similar grades. Was it led ground up? Drilled from hooks? May 18, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
  5.11b PG13
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
  5.11b PG13
Yeah, It was originally lead by Paul Crawford ground up drilled on stances and called Swamp Thing. It was protected with a piton down low and three bolts on the face. There was no bolted anchor, the route went another 30 or so feet up above the current anchor to a ledge with a gear anchor. The route was retro bolted sometime in the early 90's adding a bolt before the pin, several on the face above and one added next to the last original bolt on the route to create the current anchor and re-named Telesis. It was rated .11a R.

Or something about like that...

I believe it was retrobolted with permission. May 19, 2014
almostrad
Lake Tahoe
almostrad   Lake Tahoe
Led this thing yesterday after not climbing much all winter, and I took the ride that drewsky mentioned. Committing hand-foot match on an incut knob just below the second to last bolt. the fall could be bad if you jump out and take the slam, but it's pretty clean overall. such a great route though; can't wait to get back on this gem. Feb 13, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
  5.11b PG13
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
  5.11b PG13
^^^^^^^^^^
YIKES!!! That ones a doozy for sure. Feb 14, 2016
It was reto bolted without FA permission by John Robinson (Paul Crawford was not around during this time). He added a couple of bolts but decided it was still too runout and added another couple. Needless to say it was a serious route before retrobolting. Years later I added a second pitch that i dubbed the Swamp Thing Finish 10c. It is bolt protected and goes over the steep arete roof that can be seen from the ground. It is easy to TR from the big anchor up there. Dec 7, 2017