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Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft
FA: Paul Crawford and Rick Van Horn (11b) Joel Moore (11d)
Page Views: 832 total · 10/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Dec 20, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Technical, yet powerful start to fairly sustained 10+/11- knob smearing up high. The beginning of this route requires good body tension and technical footwork to make progress on a vertical rail that gets progressively worse as you approach the third bolt. The first three bolts are the technical crux of the direct start; the climbing in this section is well bolted and 11++. Great climbing up fantastic rock.

Next trend left to some easy flakes before heading back up and right onto a beautiful, orange and white face. Expect sustained technical smearing just when the holds are the worst. Weave your way back and forth before eventually heading left and up past the last two bolts and the anchors.

The original start to this route climbed Harding's Chimney and then stepped out right onto the face at the flakes mentioned in the description above (around the 4th bolt). Done this way, the route is 11b.

Location

Gallows Pole shares the same start as Harding's Chimney. If you can find Farley, the next chimney system to the left is Sheister and the one after that is Harding's. You can scramble up to a really nice platform and belay. Gallows is the first obvious bolt line immediately to the right of the chimney.

My partner and I were able to clip the first bolt by climbing up the initial ramp past the first bolt and then reaching back and up to clip it. If you are sub 5'10" this may be difficult. Be careful because a fall on the initial ramp would likely lead to a fall off of the ramp which is 20-30 off the ground (a #3 Camalot can be placed below the first bolt to protect this if you like, but you will surely want to retrieve the gear after clipping the first bolt).

Protection

If you climb the direct start, bring at least 9 draws for the bolts plus draws for the chain anchors. If you skip the first three bolts, then bring wide gear for the beginning of Harding's Chimney (not sure about the size, but I would bring the biggest stuff you have...it looked quite wide).

We brought two ropes because the book states that the route is 120 feet. However, when lowering, we measured and a 60m would have almost made it. Thus, I think the route is probably 115 feet or less and a single 70m rope would work. However, check to make sure and watch your ends.

Photos

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Beautiful high friction golden rock.
The direct start was put up by Joel Moore in the late 90's. He rated it 12a. I thought 11d? Dec 28, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
Thanks for the input Sal. I actually think there can be quite a big difference between an "easy" 11d and a "hard" 12a. Perhaps for you it is splitting hairs though, which is fine. Cheers. Dec 28, 2010
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.12-
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.12-
.11d/.12a sounds about right. What's the difference really?

It's got a reachy type move and a razor thin high step so it could be height dependent for short people and tall people alike.

.11d sounds about right, .12a is not far fetched either. Split the difference and call it .12-. Or just call it hard .11+... whats the difference really??? Dec 28, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
I graded this thing 11d, but I could very easily be convinced that this should be 5.12. I will wait and see what others think before changing my grade though. Suffice to say, at any sport crag, this route is solid 12a. Dec 20, 2010