Avg: 3 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft (35 m)|
|FA:||Paul Crawford and Rick Van Horn (11b), 1982; Joel Moore (11d)|
|Page Views:||1,524 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||J. Albers on Dec 20, 2010|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Many climbing areas are closed along highways 50 and 88 as the fast moving Caldor Fire spreads (as of Aug 30, 2021). Read the Mountain Project forum discussion above, and the Cal Fire incidents map here fire.ca.gov/incidents/ for latest map and information. Be safe mountain neighbors!
Next trend left to some easy flakes before heading back up and right onto a beautiful, orange and white face. Expect sustained technical smearing just when the holds are the worst. Weave your way back and forth before eventually heading left and up past the last two bolts and the anchors.
The original start to this route climbed Harding's Chimney and then stepped out right onto the face at the flakes mentioned in the description above (around the 4th bolt). Done this way, the route is 11b.
My partner and I were able to clip the first bolt by climbing up the initial ramp past the first bolt and then reaching back and up to clip it. If you are sub 5'10" this may be difficult. Be careful because a fall on the initial ramp would likely lead to a fall off of the ramp which is 20-30 off the ground (a #3 Camalot can be placed below the first bolt to protect this if you like, but you will surely want to retrieve the gear after clipping the first bolt).
We brought two ropes because the book states that the route is 120 feet. However, when lowering, we measured and a 60m would have almost made it. Thus, I think the route is probably 115 feet or less and a single 70m rope would work. However, check to make sure and watch your ends.