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Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )
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Biblical Violence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Black Mass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Demon Lung S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friend of the Devil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hidden Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prison, Babe T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Running with the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Anne Marie S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sympathy for the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 35.80462, -106.14404 |
| FA: | A. Miller, 06-2020 |
| Page Views: | 613 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Miller on Jun 22, 2020 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo
Details
Description
A neat crack line splitting the grey basalt. Good movement with lots of hidden jugs and stances keeps this corner relatively mild. But lots of enjoyable climbing on this line. Another great addition to the Diablo trad circuit.
I got my old yellow Tech-Friend stuck at the bottom of this line. This was a favorite piece of mine in the 90's when I climbed often in The Valley. It sits there still. My old Friend is now the Friend of the Devil......
Location
Scramble easily up to the ledge and walk around the corner to a nice nook at the base of FOTD and SAM. You can easily reach the first low security-bolt, in case you are uneasy with the exposure, and gear placements can be found for a belay here too. But there is room here to spread out a smallish yard-sale and comfortably sit and hang out.
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