Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jen Payne, Vaino Kodas 2008
Page Views: 371 total · 3/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 20, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A fun route that is harder than it looks. There are two sets of anchors - getting to the first set is the crux, and the best climbing is on this first pitch. But you can easily link both without much rope drag.

The climb begins with a few moves on jugs, bringing you up to a tricky blank section in the wall around bolt three. Resist the temptation to go right at this point (it will be difficult to get back to the bolt line if you do) and commit to a improbable traverse out the arete on the left (crux?). From here, the route stays on or near the left arete with fun and interesting moves all the way to the first set of anchors.

The business is over but if you feel like more climbing, there is a short second pitch, more of an extension than anything. This is mostly 5.8 or 5.9 slabbing up and noticeably left on a ramp, with one slightly harder move right at the anchors.

Location

The first sport climb to left of "Ojo". Look for a well bolted arete and face climb with some green lichen on the rock. The arete is on the left side of the face.

Protection

Tightly bolted.
7 bolts to get to the first anchors, with 7 more to get to the second set.

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