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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bryan Pletta, 2005
Page Views: 731 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Nov 7, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Located at the far (south) end of the Grotto's left side are two enjoyable routes with nice position. Prescribed Burn is the left route of the two.

Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge.

From the big ledge, climb cracks up and left past the second bolt to the big, positive horizontal crack to the third bolt. (I unclipped the second bolt from the rope because I worried, no doubt unnecessarily, that the huge block that forms the stellar horizontal crack could break away and that would be ugly).

Hand traverse out left towards the arete to a huge, immediate dose of exposure and figure out how to get your feet up on the horizontal crack and the fourth bolt. These moves are super cool! Climb just right of the arete up steep rock into the very green, licheny rock for a good rest. Technical moves through the green face lead up through some fun side pulls and an angling crack. One last thin face move gets you to the nice horizontal hand ledge and then the anchors shared with Memory Block.

The secluded location, fine views, huge exposure and variety of moves on this route deem it worthy, in my opinion, of classic status.

Location

Hike uphill from the lower Grotto past Ojo (del Diablo) on the big, blunt arete. For another photo of the area, see this photo from Vaino's website.

Apparently you can walk around the small ridge below the route to gain the belay ledge but we found the short fourth class scramble up the ridge's north side was reasonable.

Protection

9 bolts and a shared anchor with Memory Block.

Photos

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