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Prescribed Burn
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 11
votes
Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )
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Black Mass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Demon Lung S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friend of the Devil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hidden Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prison, Babe T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Running with the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Anne Marie S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sympathy for the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas and Bryan Pletta, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,672 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Nov 7, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Located at the far (south) end of the Grotto's left side are two enjoyable routes with nice position. Prescribed Burn is the left route of the two.
Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge.
From the big ledge, climb cracks up and left past the second bolt to the big, positive horizontal crack to the third bolt. (I unclipped the second bolt from the rope because I worried, no doubt unnecessarily, that the huge block that forms the stellar horizontal crack could break away and that would be ugly).
Hand traverse out left towards the arete to a huge, immediate dose of exposure and figure out how to get your feet up on the horizontal crack and the fourth bolt. These moves are super cool! Climb just right of the arete up steep rock into the very green, licheny rock for a good rest. Technical moves through the green face lead up through some fun side pulls and an angling crack. One last thin face move gets you to the nice horizontal hand ledge and then the anchors shared with Memory Block.
The secluded location, fine views, huge exposure and variety of moves on this route deem it worthy, in my opinion, of classic status.
Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge.
From the big ledge, climb cracks up and left past the second bolt to the big, positive horizontal crack to the third bolt. (I unclipped the second bolt from the rope because I worried, no doubt unnecessarily, that the huge block that forms the stellar horizontal crack could break away and that would be ugly).
Hand traverse out left towards the arete to a huge, immediate dose of exposure and figure out how to get your feet up on the horizontal crack and the fourth bolt. These moves are super cool! Climb just right of the arete up steep rock into the very green, licheny rock for a good rest. Technical moves through the green face lead up through some fun side pulls and an angling crack. One last thin face move gets you to the nice horizontal hand ledge and then the anchors shared with Memory Block.
The secluded location, fine views, huge exposure and variety of moves on this route deem it worthy, in my opinion, of classic status.
Location
Hike uphill from the lower Grotto past Ojo (del Diablo) on the big, blunt arete. For another photo of the area, see this photo from Vaino's website.
Apparently you can walk around the small ridge below the route to gain the belay ledge but we found the short fourth class scramble up the ridge's north side was reasonable.
Apparently you can walk around the small ridge below the route to gain the belay ledge but we found the short fourth class scramble up the ridge's north side was reasonable.
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