Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Gabriela Baumeister, 2009
Page Views: 409 total · 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Mar 27, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Drama Queen has nice thin face climbing for 40', after 2 bolts worth of gully thrashing (shared with El Areto Bolto Del Diablo). It was difficult to tell when to leave the crack on the right or left side of the narrow face, and when it was time to actually commit to the thin face. Once on the face and going, the climbing was high quality with small edges and occasional pockets, in the spirit of some of the other 5.10 low angle climbs at Diablo (El Areto, Humbolt, 2-Wheel Drive, Hidden Slab).

This climb possibly deserves another star, or 2, but my fingers were so cold that I was having a hissy fit during my onsight (when I climb it again, I'll reconsider; and the grit/rubble will be lessened with further traffic). (If it isn't cold,) you should do this one while you're up here to climb the soon-to-be classic El Areto (also 5.10d), which is well worth the effort of hiking up to.

Drama Queen is fully shaded until late afternoon, and fairly sheltered from wind.

Vaino's website has a nice picture showing this route.

Location

Drama Queen climbs a narrow face right of El Areto Bolto Del Diablo. These two new routes share the first 2 bolts, and begin in a gully about 50' right of the Evil Paradise route, right of Lucifer's Hammer Drill.

There is a 2-bolt anchor at the start from which to belay, to the right of where you'd approach (but we didn't see it somehow).

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
this route is a bit strange to read but the rock quality is good and the climbing fun. Worth doing if you go climb El Areto anyway. Jun 18, 2010