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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Gabriela Baumeister, 2009
Page Views: 374 total, 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Mar 27, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Drama Queen has nice thin face climbing for 40', after 2 bolts worth of gully thrashing (shared with El Areto Bolto Del Diablo). It was difficult to tell when to leave the crack on the right or left side of the narrow face, and when it was time to actually commit to the thin face. Once on the face and going, the climbing was high quality with small edges and occasional pockets, in the spirit of some of the other 5.10 low angle climbs at Diablo (El Areto, Humbolt, 2-Wheel Drive, Hidden Slab).

This climb possibly deserves another star, or 2, but my fingers were so cold that I was having a hissy fit during my onsight (when I climb it again, I'll reconsider; and the grit/rubble will be lessened with further traffic). (If it isn't cold,) you should do this one while you're up here to climb the soon-to-be classic El Areto (also 5.10d), which is well worth the effort of hiking up to.

Drama Queen is fully shaded until late afternoon, and fairly sheltered from wind.

Vaino's website has a nice picture showing this route.

Location

Drama Queen climbs a narrow face right of El Areto Bolto Del Diablo. These two new routes share the first 2 bolts, and begin in a gully about 50' right of the Evil Paradise route, right of Lucifer's Hammer Drill.

There is a 2-bolt anchor at the start from which to belay, to the right of where you'd approach (but we didn't see it somehow).

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
this route is a bit strange to read but the rock quality is good and the climbing fun. Worth doing if you go climb El Areto anyway. Jun 18, 2010