All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto > Top of the Grotto (Oj…

Panic Attack

Name: Panic Attack
Rating: 0.7

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13

Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Mass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Demon Lung S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Friend of the Devil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hidden Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Prison, Babe T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Running with the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sweet Anne Marie S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Sympathy for the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA:	Walt Wehner, Tonio Maggiore
Page Views:	868 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Wa3lt on Nov 26, 2006
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Panic attack is a really, really bad climb. But it was the first route I ever did at Diablo. It climbs the grungy wide crack/slab/dihedral between Hidden Slab and Sunday Bloody Sunday. Full of dirt and loose rocks, as water runs down the route from the mesa top when it rains. Use anchors for "Hidden Slab" to lower, or top out onto the mesa and bushwhack back down.

Protection

The route is easy to protect with a standard rack to 3", though there will be runouts on easier sections. Wider pro (#4 or #5 camalot) may ease your mind.