Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Vaino Kodas and Bryan Pletta, 2005 |
Page Views: | 1,324 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Nov 7, 2009 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
If you're looking for some solitude at the Grotto, this route will help you find it. Located at the far (south) end of the Grotto's left side are two enjoyable routes with nice position. Memory Block is the right route of the two.
Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge. Head up and right using some cracks to gain a nice stance on the arete. Stick to the very positive arete for four more clips before you need to figure out a way to head left across the clean face to a positive but hard to see crack. A horizontal crack/ledge and opportunities for hand jams take you to the shared anchor with Prescribed Burn.
Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge. Head up and right using some cracks to gain a nice stance on the arete. Stick to the very positive arete for four more clips before you need to figure out a way to head left across the clean face to a positive but hard to see crack. A horizontal crack/ledge and opportunities for hand jams take you to the shared anchor with Prescribed Burn.
Location
Hike uphill from the lower Grotto past Ojo (del Diablo) on the big, blunt arete. For another photo of the area, see this photo from Vaino's website.
Apparently you can walk around the small ridge below the route to gain the belay ledge but we found the short fourth class scramble up the ridge's north side was reasonable.
Apparently you can walk around the small ridge below the route to gain the belay ledge but we found the short fourth class scramble up the ridge's north side was reasonable.
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