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Routes in Main Elk Crag

Baa, Baa, Black Sheep S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bellatrix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best in Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Kitty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bizzler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ball Retriever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Breathless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Buggery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corn Fritter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eight Days On The River S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ent Killer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleece Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fresh Fried Chicken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fried Lizard Gizzard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gecko Blaster S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Giblet Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gigantor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Godzilla S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Howl Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jewel Rosena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jorts are the New Lycra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Joyful Journey S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leaping Lizard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limp Lizard S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mary Had a Little Lamb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mashed Potatoes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miniature Snouter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mint Jelly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mongrels S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patchouli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Cap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Size Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tierra del Libre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triceratops S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Velcro Glove S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velociraptor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Josh Wharton
Page Views: 366 total · 6/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Once a scary run-out lead, this route has now been re-bolted (with permission from the FA) for your clipping pleasure! The rebolting effort has morphed this route into a great, fun, and challenging addition to Main Elk.

After getting through the loose choss band at the start (this is the only bad rock on the entire route and prevalent across all routes at Main Elk), climb fun, technical, golden limestone to the overhanging crux. Decipher the crux moves, and you are rewarded with a great jug rest below the final black slab headwall. Attention to your feet and a clear head will help you get through this headwall, which is littered with sharp rock, great sidepulls, and thin horizontal crimp rails that look like they came off your hangboard!

Location

This route starts in the middle of the east-facing panel of the tall overhanging buttress on the far right side of Main Elk crag. It is 4 routes to the right of Velociraptor.

Protection

You need a 70 meter rope to get down from this climb!

14 bolts; anchor with lowering biners. Long slings may be useful below the overhanging section to reduce rope drag above.

Photos

Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
A 60m rope works but not by much. Nov 29, 2013
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12b/c
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12b/c
Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-. Mar 5, 2014
Michael Logan
Carbondale, CO
Michael Logan   Carbondale, CO
Even without a knee pad and/or knee bar, the rating is more like 12-. Dec 14, 2014

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