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Routes in Main Elk Crag

Best in Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bizzler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ball Retriever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Breathless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Corn Fritter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eight Days On The River S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fresh Fried Chicken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fried Lizard Gizzard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Giblet Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gigantor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Howl Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jewel Rosena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jorts are the New Lycra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leaping Lizard S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Limp Lizard S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mashed Potatoes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mint Jelly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mongrels S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patchouli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Size Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triceratops S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Velociraptor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Josh Wharton
Page Views: 239 total, 5/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Once a scary run-out lead, this route has now been re-bolted (with permission from the FA) for your clipping pleasure! The rebolting effort has morphed this route into a great, fun, and challenging addition to Main Elk.

After getting through the loose choss band at the start (this is the only bad rock on the entire route and prevalent across all routes at Main Elk), climb fun, technical, golden limestone to the overhanging crux. Decipher the crux moves, and you are rewarded with a great jug rest below the final black slab headwall. Attention to your feet and a clear head will help you get through this headwall, which is littered with sharp rock, great sidepulls, and thin horizontal crimp rails that look like they came off your hangboard!

Location

This route starts in the middle of the east-facing panel of the tall overhanging buttress on the far right side of Main Elk crag. It is 4 routes to the right of Velociraptor.

Protection

You need a 70 meter rope to get down from this climb!

14 bolts; anchor with lowering biners. Long slings may be useful below the overhanging section to reduce rope drag above.

Photos

Michael Logan
Carbondale, CO
Michael Logan   Carbondale, CO
Even without a knee pad and/or knee bar, the rating is more like 12-. Dec 14, 2014
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
 
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
 
Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-. Mar 5, 2014
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
A 60m rope works but not by much. Nov 29, 2013