Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Josh Wharton
Page Views: 510 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Once a scary run-out lead, this route has now been re-bolted (with permission from the FA) for your clipping pleasure! The rebolting effort has morphed this route into a great, fun, and challenging addition to Main Elk.

After getting through the loose choss band at the start (this is the only bad rock on the entire route and prevalent across all routes at Main Elk), climb fun, technical, golden limestone to the overhanging crux. Decipher the crux moves, and you are rewarded with a great jug rest below the final black slab headwall. Attention to your feet and a clear head will help you get through this headwall, which is littered with sharp rock, great sidepulls, and thin horizontal crimp rails that look like they came off your hangboard!

Location

This route starts in the middle of the east-facing panel of the tall overhanging buttress on the far right side of Main Elk crag. It is 4 routes to the right of Velociraptor.

Protection

You need a 70 meter rope to get down from this climb!

14 bolts; anchor with lowering biners. Long slings may be useful below the overhanging section to reduce rope drag above.

Photos

Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
A 60m rope works but not by much. Nov 29, 2013
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12b/c
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12b/c
Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-. Mar 5, 2014
Michael Logan
Carbondale, CO
Michael Logan   Carbondale, CO
Even without a knee pad and/or knee bar, the rating is more like 12-. Dec 14, 2014