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Elevation: 6,365 ft 1,940 m
GPS: 39.67763, -107.56932
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 254,694 total · 2,190/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 29, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Located outside of the town of New Castle, Main Elk Creek is home to some good, limestone, sport climbing crags. These are quickly gaining in popularity during the winter months due to their southern exposure and breadth of climbing grades and styles, which range from slabby 5.7 to super steep 5.15a!

Development is still on-going at many of these locations, and the rock is still cleaning up a bit, so climb with caution and wear a helmet. Consider stick-clipping the first bolts of routes, which often start through a chossy band of rock before giving way to much better stone above.

Main Elk Creek is the access point for the following crags; click on the sub-sections for more information and routes list:
- Burro Wall
- Main Elk Crag
- Pup Tent of Solitude
- Fortress of Solitude
- Windy Point.

Getting There Suggest change

From New Castle, travel west on County Road 245, which can be found at the west end of main street by following the sign for "National Forest Service Access." Go past the turnoff to East Elk to the Main Elk Road turnoff, County Road 243, which is also the National Forest Service Access for the Clinetop Road. Go about 6 miles on County Road 243. The pavement ends at a sharp right hand turn and the road crosses Main Elk Creek on a bridge. Shortly thereafter is a large pullout on the left with a large brown sign for the Clinetop bighorn sheep and a large informational bulletin board. This is the trailhead for the Hadley Gulch Trail, which accesses many of these crags.

199 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Elk Creek Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Elk Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 74
Velcro Glove
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 87
Girls With Guns
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 116
Velociraptor
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 65
Fleece Pocket
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
Triceratops
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 22
Puppy Love
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 53
Gigantor
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 25
Aries
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Sand People Cometh
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 30
Baa, Baa, Black Sheep
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 31
Limp Lizard
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 29
Black Ball Retriever
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 28
Best in Show
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
Metropolis
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Boy Wonder
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Velcro Glove Main Elk Crag
 74
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Girls With Guns Pup Tent of Solitude
 87
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Velociraptor Main Elk Crag
 116
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fleece Pocket Main Elk Crag
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Triceratops Main Elk Crag
 29
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Puppy Love Pup Tent of Solitude
 22
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gigantor Main Elk Crag
 53
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Aries Main Elk Crag
 25
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sand People Cometh Burro Wall
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Baa, Baa, Black Sheep Main Elk Crag
 30
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Limp Lizard Main Elk Crag
 31
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Black Ball Retriever Main Elk Crag
 29
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Best in Show Main Elk Crag
 28
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Metropolis Fortress of Sol… > Metropolis Sector
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Boy Wonder Fortress of Sol… > E Walls/Bat Cave
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Elk Creek »

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