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Elevation: 6,365 ft 1,940 m
GPS: 39.67763, -107.56932
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 255,343 total · 1,986/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 29, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

Located outside of the Town of New Castle, Main Elk Creek is home to some good, limestone, sport climbing crags. These are quickly gaining in popularity during the winter months due to their southern exposure and breadth of climbing grades and styles, which range from slabby 5.7 to super steep 5.15a!

Development is still ongoing at many of these locations, and the rock is still cleaning up a bit, so climb with caution and wear a helmet. Consider stick-clipping the first bolts of routes, which often start through a chossy band of rock before giving way to much better stone above.

Main Elk Creek is the access point for the following crags; click on the sub-sections for more information and routes list:

- Burro Wall

- Main Elk Crag

- Pup Tent of Solitude

- Fortress of Solitude

- Windy Point

- Solar Wall

- West Fortress

- Troll Zone

Getting There Suggest change

From New Castle, travel west on County Road 245, which can be found at the west end of main street by following the sign for "National Forest Service Access." Go past the turnoff to East Elk to the Main Elk Road turnoff, County Road 243, which is also the National Forest Service Access for the Clinetop Road. Go about 6 miles on County Road 243. The pavement ends at a sharp right hand turn and the road crosses Main Elk Creek on a bridge. Shortly thereafter is a large pullout on the left with a large brown sign for the Clinetop bighorn sheep and a large informational bulletin board. This is the trailhead for the Hadley Gulch Trail, which accesses many of these crags.

203 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Elk Creek Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Elk Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 83
● Velcro Glove
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 95
● Girls With Guns
Sport
Pup Tent of Solitude
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 125
● Velociraptor
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 77
● Fleece Pocket
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 30
● Triceratops
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 27
● Puppy Love
Sport
Pup Tent of Solitude
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 61
● Gigantor
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 26
● Aries
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
● Baa, Baa, Black Sheep
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 34
● Limp Lizard
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 31
● Black Ball Retriever
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 30
● Best in Show
Sport
Main Elk Crag
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
● Metropolis
Sport
Fortress of Sol… > Metropolis Sector
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
● Blood Dries Darker
Sport
Fortress of Sol… > Metropolis Sector
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
● Trouble
Sport
Fortress of Sol… > Super Sector
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Velcro Glove Main Elk Crag
 83
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Girls With Guns Pup Tent of Solitude
 95
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Velociraptor Main Elk Crag
 125
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Fleece Pocket Main Elk Crag
 77
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Triceratops Main Elk Crag
 30
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Puppy Love Pup Tent of Solitude
 27
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Gigantor Main Elk Crag
 61
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Aries Main Elk Crag
 26
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Baa, Baa, Black Sheep Main Elk Crag
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Limp Lizard Main Elk Crag
 34
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Black Ball Retriever Main Elk Crag
 31
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Best in Show Main Elk Crag
 30
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Metropolis Fortress of Sol… > Metropolis Sector
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Blood Dries Darker Fortress of Sol… > Metropolis Sector
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Trouble Fortress of Sol… > Super Sector
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Elk Creek »

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Photos

Antione Aube on Glamorama.
Antione Aube on Glamorama.
 11
Looking up Main Elk Creek to Deep Creek Point. There are infinite possibilities - all depending on how far you are willing to walk.
Looking up Main Elk Creek to Deep Creek Point.…
 0

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