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Areas in Main Elk Creek

Burro Wall 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Fortress of Solitude 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Main Elk Crag 2 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Pup Tent of Solitude 5 / 42 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
Windy Point 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

Located outside of the town of New Castle, Main Elk Creek is home to some good, limestone, sport climbing crags. These are quickly gaining in popularity during the winter months due to their southern exposure and breadth of climbing grades and styles, which range from slabby 5.7 to super steep 5.15a!

Development is still on-going at many of these locations, and the rock is still cleaning up a bit, so climb with caution and wear a helmet. Consider stick-clipping the first bolts of routes, which often start through a chossy band of rock before giving way to much better stone above.

Main Elk Creek is the access point for the following crags; click on the sub-sections for more information and routes list:
- Burro Wall
- Main Elk Crag
- Pup Tent of Solitude
- Fortress of Solitude
- Windy Point.

Getting There

From New Castle, travel west on County Road 245, which can be found at the west end of main street by following the sign for "National Forest Service Access." Go past the turnoff to East Elk to the Main Elk Road turnoff, County Road 243, which is also the National Forest Service Access for the Clinetop Road. Go about 6 miles on County Road 243. The pavement ends at a sharp right hand turn and the road crosses Main Elk Creek on a bridge. Shortly thereafter is a large pullout on the left with a large brown sign for the Clinetop bighorn sheep and a large informational bulletin board. This is the trailhead for the Hadley Gulch Trail, which accesses many of these crags.

95 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Elk Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Nickelpup
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subpar
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Giblet Gravy
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magical Handhold
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Girls With Guns
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Subprime
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Velociraptor
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hanu
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Puppy Love
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jennifer's World
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triceratops
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gigantor
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shapeshifter
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Metropolis
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Best in Show
Sport
The Nickelpup Pup Tent of Solitude 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Subpar Pup Tent of Solitude 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Giblet Gravy Main Elk Crag 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Magical Handhold Pup Tent of Solitude 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Girls With Guns Pup Tent of Solitude 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Subprime Pup Tent of Solitude 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Velociraptor Main Elk Crag 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hanu Pup Tent of Solitude 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Puppy Love Pup Tent of Solitude 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jennifer's World Pup Tent of Solitude 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Triceratops Main Elk Crag 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gigantor Main Elk Crag 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Shapeshifter Pup Tent of Solitude 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Metropolis Fortress of Solitude > Metropolis Sector 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Best in Show Main Elk Crag 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Elk Creek »

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