Elevation: 6,365 ft
GPS: 39.67763, -107.56932
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 252,726 total · 2,507/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 29, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Located outside of the town of New Castle, Main Elk Creek is home to some good, limestone, sport climbing crags. These are quickly gaining in popularity during the winter months due to their southern exposure and breadth of climbing grades and styles, which range from slabby 5.7 to super steep 5.15a!

Development is still on-going at many of these locations, and the rock is still cleaning up a bit, so climb with caution and wear a helmet. Consider stick-clipping the first bolts of routes, which often start through a chossy band of rock before giving way to much better stone above.

Main Elk Creek is the access point for the following crags; click on the sub-sections for more information and routes list:
- Burro Wall
- Main Elk Crag
- Pup Tent of Solitude
- Fortress of Solitude
- Windy Point.

Getting There

From New Castle, travel west on County Road 245, which can be found at the west end of main street by following the sign for "National Forest Service Access." Go past the turnoff to East Elk to the Main Elk Road turnoff, County Road 243, which is also the National Forest Service Access for the Clinetop Road. Go about 6 miles on County Road 243. The pavement ends at a sharp right hand turn and the road crosses Main Elk Creek on a bridge. Shortly thereafter is a large pullout on the left with a large brown sign for the Clinetop bighorn sheep and a large informational bulletin board. This is the trailhead for the Hadley Gulch Trail, which accesses many of these crags.

163 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Elk Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Deputy Dawg
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
The Nickelpup
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 63
Subpar
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Mary Had a Little Lamb
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 60
Thin and Crispy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 65
Giblet Gravy
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Velcro Glove
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 80
Girls With Guns
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 58
Subprime
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 99
Velociraptor
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Fleece Pocket
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 38
Pi
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 44
Gigantor
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 27
Black Ball Retriever
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
Best in Show
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Deputy Dawg Pup Tent of Solitude
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Nickelpup Pup Tent of Solitude
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Subpar Pup Tent of Solitude
 63
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mary Had a Little Lamb Main Elk Crag
 52
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Thin and Crispy Pup Tent of Solitude
 60
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Giblet Gravy Main Elk Crag
 65
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Velcro Glove Main Elk Crag
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Girls With Guns Pup Tent of Solitude
 80
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Subprime Pup Tent of Solitude
 58
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Velociraptor Main Elk Crag
 99
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fleece Pocket Main Elk Crag
 48
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pi Main Elk Crag
 38
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gigantor Main Elk Crag
 44
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Ball Retriever Main Elk Crag
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Best in Show Main Elk Crag
 27
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Elk Creek »

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