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Routes in Main Elk Crag

Best in Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bizzler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ball Retriever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Breathless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Corn Fritter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eight Days On The River S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fresh Fried Chicken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fried Lizard Gizzard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Giblet Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gigantor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Howl Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jewel Rosena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jorts are the New Lycra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Limp Lizard S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mashed Potatoes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mint Jelly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mongrels S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patchouli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Size Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triceratops S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Velociraptor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bill Gibson, Jeff Achey, Amber Johnstone
Page Views: 2,388 total, 43/month
Shared By: bagwag Gibson on Apr 18, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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33 Opinions

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Description

Start on small horizontal ledges to the first bolt. Then follow a discontinuous crack system up changing corners. The technical crux is at a right-facing corner near the 4th bolt. About halfway up, continue by pulling over a bulge into a left-facing dihedral, and step out left on slab under another mini-bulge. The final slab is protected by 3 bolts to a corner with a layback crack and stemming to the anchor. The route is continuous and LONG but has 2-3 decent resting spots along the way. It is well-protected at the cruxes.

Location

The route is on South-facing prow/buttress near the beginning of the Main Elk crag proper, kind of where Pup Tent ends and the Main Elk routes start. Its location is between T-Rex (right) and Fried Lizard Gizzard which is a left-facing, bolted, dihedral crack (left). Other routes routes nearby are Patchouli, Southern Fried Chicken, (to the West) and Limp Lizards, around the corner, (to the East).

There is a connector-trail made of rock steps (thanks, Brian G.) leading uphill to the buttress that forks right from the Main Elk canyon trail before entering the canyon.

The hike is about a 15-20 minute jaunt from the parking area.

Protection

14 bolts, not including the anchor. The anchor has Fixe rings. Yes, it can be done with 60m rope.
David A. Turner
  5.11a
David A. Turner  
  5.11a
Better for its grade (and more sustained) than The Opportunist at Staunton State Park. Oct 23, 2017
Jon Sinclair
Lafayette, CO
  5.11a
Jon Sinclair   Lafayette, CO
  5.11a
Really outstanding climb. Solid 10+/11a moves the whole way but with some big recovery spots to make it doable for an 11a climber. Sep 18, 2017
Get ready for a long, fun route! Thoughtful and varied, this route has it all and is the best at the prow and may be the best of the grade in the area. Jan 23, 2016
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11a
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11a
Great route! Definitely a little sustained, but you do get a couple of good rests. The top was a bit of a waterfall when we climbed it, but it seems that is probably normal if it has snowed a fair amount recently. Best route I have got on at Elk Creek so far. Dec 22, 2015
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
This route is outstanding! Oct 26, 2013
Forgot to mention, thanks to Jeff Achey for his help in scoping and ticking bolt placements on Velociraptor. Jeff had his eye on this line for years but graciously, if not covertly, inspired me to bolt it. Aug 21, 2013