Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bill Gibson, Jeff Achey, Amber Johnstone
Page Views: 2,835 total · 39/month
Shared By: bagwag Gibson on Apr 18, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

Start on small horizontal ledges to the first bolt. Then follow a discontinuous crack system up changing corners. The technical crux is at a right-facing corner near the 4th bolt. About halfway up, continue by pulling over a bulge into a left-facing dihedral, and step out left on slab under another mini-bulge. The final slab is protected by 3 bolts to a corner with a layback crack and stemming to the anchor. The route is continuous and LONG but has 2-3 decent resting spots along the way. It is well-protected at the cruxes.

Location

The route is on South-facing prow/buttress near the beginning of the Main Elk crag proper, kind of where Pup Tent ends and the Main Elk routes start. Its location is between T-Rex (right) and Fried Lizard Gizzard which is a left-facing, bolted, dihedral crack (left). Other routes routes nearby are Patchouli, Southern Fried Chicken, (to the West) and Limp Lizards, around the corner, (to the East).

There is a connector-trail made of rock steps (thanks, Brian G.) leading uphill to the buttress that forks right from the Main Elk canyon trail before entering the canyon.

The hike is about a 15-20 minute jaunt from the parking area.

Protection

14 bolts, not including the anchor. The anchor has Fixe rings. Yes, it can be done with 60m rope.

Photos

bagwag Gibson
  5.11a
bagwag Gibson  
  5.11a
Forgot to mention, thanks to Jeff Achey for his help in scoping and ticking bolt placements on Velociraptor. Jeff had his eye on this line for years but graciously, if not covertly, inspired me to bolt it. Aug 21, 2013
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
This route is outstanding! Oct 26, 2013
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11a
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11a
Great route! Definitely a little sustained, but you do get a couple of good rests. The top was a bit of a waterfall when we climbed it, but it seems that is probably normal if it has snowed a fair amount recently. Best route I have got on at Elk Creek so far. Dec 22, 2015
Get ready for a long, fun route! Thoughtful and varied, this route has it all and is the best at the prow and may be the best of the grade in the area. Jan 23, 2016
Jon Sinclair
Lafayette, CO
  5.11a
Jon Sinclair   Lafayette, CO
  5.11a
Really outstanding climb. Solid 10+/11a moves the whole way but with some big recovery spots to make it doable for an 11a climber. Sep 18, 2017
David A. Turner
  5.11a
David A. Turner  
  5.11a
Better for its grade (and more sustained) than The Opportunist at Staunton State Park. Oct 23, 2017