Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dave Pegg
Page Views: 1,558 total · 24/month
Shared By: MaryH. Harlan on Jan 18, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Pass 2 bolts worth of less than ideal rock, then pass a short .12a crux to a rest. Faceclimb a beautiful headwall on small crimps, edges, and sidepulls with a few dynamic moves for 4 bolts. The headwall is the crux. This has sustained climbing to an easier top-out. This is a totally awesome route - best on the wall!

Location

This is on Main Elk on the prow, just right of Black Ball Receiver. The start is shared with The Bizzler (11+) and then goes straight up the overhanging headwall.

Protection

7 bolts; chain anchor with lower biners

Photos

Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12d
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12d
While I feel that no move on this climb is harder than the crux of Black Ball Retriever, the upper headwall is very sustained, and every move feels harder and harder as the pump sets in. Awesome power endurance route! Mar 30, 2014
Jay 1975
Bonedale, CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale, CO
Ed: the Bizzler is .12b I believe and feel. Lappable but not 11+.

"Best" is 12d for this rock. Sep 24, 2014
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.12c/d
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.12c/d
Perhaps a bit harder for the shorter climber - a good time nonetheless. Dec 20, 2018