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Routes in Main Elk Crag

Baa, Baa, Black Sheep S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best in Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bizzler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ball Retriever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Breathless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Corn Fritter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eight Days On The River S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fleece Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fresh Fried Chicken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fried Lizard Gizzard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Giblet Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gigantor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Howl Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jewel Rosena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jorts are the New Lycra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leaping Lizard S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Limp Lizard S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mashed Potatoes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mint Jelly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mongrels S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patchouli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Size Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triceratops S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Velociraptor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dave Pegg
Page Views: 1,125 total · 23/month
Shared By: MaryH. on Jan 18, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pass 2 bolts worth of less than ideal rock, then pass a short .12a crux to a rest. Faceclimb a beautiful headwall on small crimps, edges, and sidepulls with a few dynamic moves for 4 bolts. The headwall is the crux. This has sustained climbing to an easier top-out. This is a totally awesome route - best on the wall!

Location

This is on Main Elk on the prow, just right of Black Ball Receiver. The start is shared with The Bizzler (11+) and then goes straight up the overhanging headwall.

Protection

7 bolts; chain anchor with lower biners

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Ed: the Bizzler is .12b I believe and feel. Lappable but not 11+.

"Best" is 12d for this rock. Sep 24, 2014
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12d
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12d
While I feel that no move on this climb is harder than the crux of Black Ball Retriever, the upper headwall is very sustained, and every move feels harder and harder as the pump sets in. Awesome power endurance route! Mar 30, 2014