Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dave Pegg, 2009
Page Views: 113 total · 82/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Apr 8, 2019
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the King line of the Main Elk crag and the most difficult by assigned grade. The crux of this route climbs more like Rifle Canyon than Main Elk.

Climb up easy, intro rock for a few bolts before encountering some tricky, face climbing moves. A good rest presents itself part way up where you can hang out as long as needed. Leave the rest through another short crux, and get established on a decent shake below the imposing roof. From here, power and kneebar your way through the steep, tiered roof to a final finishing jug. Lower here to save your rope if working the route, or if sending, climb easier rock to an anchor just before the top of the cliff.

A left kneebar pad is helpful.

A 12b variation of this route "Baby Rex" climbs the lower face before breaking left to finish on "Triceratops". Don't follow these bolts which break left into the dihedral.

Location

This climbs the obvious buttress just to the left of the approach trail. To the left is the shared start of the popular warm-ups "Velociraptor" & ""Triceratops". To the right is the obvious crack splitting the buttress "Howl Roof".

Protection

15 bolts to anchors. Rope drag can be a pain, so it is best to backclean or sling the first few bolts, and use a few long draws on the route.

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