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Routes in Main Elk Crag
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Aries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Baa, Baa, Black Sheep S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bellatrix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Best in Show S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Kitty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bighorn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Birthday Groove S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bizzler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Ball Retriever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bladerunner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Breathless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Buggery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Castration Station S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cat Woman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cease and Desist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Clever Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Corn Fritter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double Scoop S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Down On The Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dust Bunny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eight Days On The River S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Endless Love S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ent Killer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eternal Flame S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Evil Twin S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fleece Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fresh Fried Chicken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Freshly Shorn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freshly Squeezed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fried Lizard Gizzard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gecko Blaster S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Get Down, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Giblet Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gigantor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Go Chargers! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Godzilla S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hold On Loosely S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hold On Tight S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hold The Line S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Howl Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Infinite Jest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jewel Rosena S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jim's Palomino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jorts are the New Lycra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Joyful Journey S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Leanie Meanie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Leaping Lizard S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Limp Lizard S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Mary Had a Little Lamb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mashed Potatoes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Miniature Snouter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mint Jelly S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mongrels S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moon Pie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nat Turner's Rebellion S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Patchouli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Cap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ryan Goes to Hell S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shake Your Groove Thing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Split Lizard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Spunky Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Superman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Super Size Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tierra del Libre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tiramisu S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Triceratops S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ultimatum S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Unknown “Wilson Direct” S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Velcro Glove S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Velociraptor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Virgin Wool S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wilson S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Dave Pegg, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,571 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Apr 8, 2019 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the King line of the Main Elk crag and the most difficult by assigned grade. The crux of this route climbs more like Rifle Canyon than Main Elk.
Climb up easy, intro rock for a few bolts before encountering some tricky, face climbing moves. A good rest presents itself part way up where you can hang out as long as needed. Leave the rest through another short crux, and get established on a decent shake below the imposing roof. From here, power and kneebar your way through the steep, tiered roof to a final finishing jug. Lower here to save your rope if working the route, or if sending, climb easier rock to an anchor just before the top of the cliff.
A left kneebar pad is helpful.
A 12b variation of this route "Baby Rex" climbs the lower face before breaking left to finish on "Triceratops". Don't follow these bolts which break left into the dihedral.
Climb up easy, intro rock for a few bolts before encountering some tricky, face climbing moves. A good rest presents itself part way up where you can hang out as long as needed. Leave the rest through another short crux, and get established on a decent shake below the imposing roof. From here, power and kneebar your way through the steep, tiered roof to a final finishing jug. Lower here to save your rope if working the route, or if sending, climb easier rock to an anchor just before the top of the cliff.
A left kneebar pad is helpful.
A 12b variation of this route "Baby Rex" climbs the lower face before breaking left to finish on "Triceratops". Don't follow these bolts which break left into the dihedral.
Location
This climbs the obvious buttress just to the left of the approach trail. To the left is the shared start of the popular warm-ups "Velociraptor" & ""Triceratops". To the right is the obvious crack splitting the buttress "Howl Roof".
Photos
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