Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Limp Lizard

5.12a/b, Sport, 110 ft,  Avg: 3 from 15 votes
FA: Josh Wharton
Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Main Elk Creek > Main Elk Crag

Description

Once a scary run-out lead, this route has now been re-bolted (with permission from the FA) for your clipping pleasure! The rebolting effort has morphed this route into a great, fun, and challenging addition to Main Elk.

After getting through the loose choss band at the start (this is the only bad rock on the entire route and prevalent across all routes at Main Elk), climb fun, technical, golden limestone to the overhanging crux. Decipher the crux moves, and you are rewarded with a great jug rest below the final black slab headwall. Attention to your feet and a clear head will help you get through this headwall, which is littered with sharp rock, great sidepulls, and thin horizontal crimp rails that look like they came off your hangboard!

Location

This route starts in the middle of the east-facing panel of the tall overhanging buttress on the far right side of Main Elk crag. It is 4 routes to the right of Velociraptor.

Protection

You need a 70 meter rope to get down from this climb!

14 bolts; anchor with lowering biners. Long slings may be useful below the overhanging section to reduce rope drag above.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bird flippin' just past the crux.
[Hide Photo] Bird flippin' just past the crux.
Limp Lizard (5.12a).
[Hide Photo] Limp Lizard (5.12a).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lynn S
 
[Hide Comment] A 60m rope works but not by much. Nov 29, 2013
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-. Mar 5, 2014
Michael Logan
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] Even without a knee pad and/or knee bar, the rating is more like 12-. Dec 14, 2014