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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Avant Gardener T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Felix Felicis S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: (Full, to tree at top) Geoff Georges
Page Views: 2,617 total · 41/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 13, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Corner climbing with small roof. Involves jamming and stemming.

One can toprope the bottom half from the Plum Pudding anchors.

Location

Major corner between Plum Pudding and Folsom Blues.

Protection

To 3". More in the smaller sizes.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
AUG. 2013 2) 1/2" SS bolts and Fixe hangers with chain at 100' top out of PBR.

I have heard from a few folks that climbed this that think it is harder than 10b. If you climb this, rate it here and maybe the consensus will clear this up. The start is strenuous layback, green/yellow Alien, flaring hand, tricky few moves to gain good hold, hands to fingers around bulge ( face holds for high foot) stump/dirt, then groove to stem over bulge, large crack out right, more stemming till easy upper corner to anchor Aug 20, 2013
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.10b
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.10b
Fantastic addition to the mid wall! The upper third (from the tree stump up) isn't as clean as the start but once it is polished up with a bit more traffic and scrubbing this line is sure to become classic. Sep 14, 2013
Ben Kunz
  5.10b
Ben Kunz  
  5.10b
Thanks for cleaning Geoff et al!! Feels 10b to me. Aug 27, 2014
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.10c
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.10c
Awesome route. I thought it felt slightly harder than Folsom Blues (or at least more sustained), so I give it at .10c. Fantastic climbing the whole way! Sep 15, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
taking advantage of the spring weather in February to complete cleaning PBR. Used a cordless sawsall to remove the stump and roots, yikes that is hard work. Hammer and chisel too. Climbed it 3 times, really great however very wet. Feb 18, 2015
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
  5.10b
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
  5.10b
This route is fantastic! Perfect and varied climbing all the way, would be swarmed if it were on the lower wall. I hope there is enough traffic to keep this route clean! Jun 7, 2015
Devin Bishop
  5.10b
Devin Bishop  
  5.10b
Climbed this several times recently, both on top rope and lead. Rakkup Index Guide has this as 5.10a. I think it's at least 10b, possibly 10c depending on finger size. I can't fit my fingers into .3 Camalot cracks, that's a very tenuous size for me. Fortunately, most of the tiny stuff is .4 Camalot. Still, rather strenuous at the initial start. Folsom Blues was harder, but certainly not as sustained. Aug 26, 2015
RodrigoB  
 
Great climb. When accounting for the more sustained nature of the route I found it to be more difficult than Folsom. Thanks for the gardening work. May 7, 2016
Zacks  
thought this was easier than tatoosh, definatley less pumped. Might have a height dependant move or 2 that would adjust the grade? Jul 17, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
I climbed this again, maybe just because it is now clean it seems easier. This was the first time i lead it without the tree stump and crack around it clean of dirt. It seemed more like 10a to me now. Sep 8, 2017
PBR is to the Middle Wall what Japanese Gardens is to the LTW, DHLA is to the UTW, Kite Flying Blind is to The Country. It’s simply the best climb of the sector.

I think this climb demonstrates the beauty and frustration of climbing at Index. It takes gear bottom to top, requires fingers to hands crack technique, and even some quality stemming here and there. It gets climbed enough to keep it clean so the efforts of those removing moss and trees early on have their efforts sustained (Thanks JT and GG).

As for the grade, my personal opinion is 5.10b/c or even d, depending on finger size in the first 20 feet. Honestly, I could name at least 4 legit 5.10d’s at Index that I find easier than this climb. Hell, there’s 2 - 5.11a’s within 60 feet that I find easier than this climb. I still don’t know what it’s like to climb this route without blood dripping from my knuckles.

4 Stars. Lots of finger size cams Jun 11, 2018

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