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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Avant Gardener T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Darryl Cramer and Jon Nelson (July 29, 2012)
Page Views: 951 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Generally follows a right-facing corner.

Starts with a short hand crack that goes to a sloping ramp below the corner. Do several bolt-protected layback moves into the corner. When the good layback edges fade (at 3rd bolt), stem right onto the large knob and then move right to climb up the knobby face. At the top of the face, step back left over the top of the corner and trend up and left to the chained anchor on Robin's Ramp.

Location

Left of Robin's Ramp, just left of obvious finger crack. Shares the same start as Hips and Valleys.

Protection

Large cam for hand crack at bottom, small wires (brass nuts useful) to protect the clip to the first bolt, at least 4 quickdraws for the 4 bolts, and some finger-to-hand-sized pieces for the top.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b/c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b/c
I climbed this on lead knowing of the talk here. I don't know what it was like to lead this dirty, probably scary. The pictures here show a mossy corner. I placed a small cam off the big ledge, was pretty gripped and glad to find the little layback edges, clipped 1st bolt, left finger slot below corner, stemmed up, clipped 2nd bolt, pulling on crack on left face of corner, .75 at end of that, clip 3rd bolt, move onto chicken heads, 4th bolt. Then placed yellow alien above that, leftward moves tricky, scary block-is that thing solid? all easy above there. Nice route. Aug 5, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Wow, great job on that lead. It looked to be much harder going straight up the corner. Of course, it is possible that someone else did your direct line, but Darryl, the person who generally gets notified when a new route goes up at Index, hadn't heard about it. Why don't you give it a name and rating? Why not add the route to this site and mention that it was lead before Flippo? Ditto for any other routes you've done that aren't in Sky Valley Rock, RCNW, or some other site that publishes new routes.

The story on Flippo is that it was cleaned off several years ago by Darryl and another person and then top-roped. They didn't have the time then to bolt it. I went there with Darryl recently, recleaned it, and added bolts. I imagine that you probably wouldn't have even considered the lead if the route hadn't been cleaned off before. Cleaning at Index is hard work!

I don't recommend that anyone chops the bolts. At Index, if a route doesn't get done regularly, it gets covered in moss and dirt and the whole effort is wasted. And maybe with your line publicized, the first two bolts that it shares with Flippo will give it more traffic, which is probably what you want. Bolts have been added to routes before for that same reason.

Aug 22, 2012
lukic  
There are bolts now inside the flare that protected with gear. Going to the arete may be a variation, but they added bolts to the start in the flare well before traversing to the arete. I understand that the gear is small, tricky and heady, but it's still there. With the knowledge that it is not an FA through the flare, I think the bolters should correct their actions. I'm not trying to be provocative or confrontational, just informative. Aug 20, 2012
I think Jon bolted a variation to what you climbed. Aug 18, 2012
lukic  
You bolted a route that went free last year on gear, on-sight. We didn't have the temerity to assume that it was an FA, let alone to think about adding bolts. Aug 17, 2012