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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Avant Gardener T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,782 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 27, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

A slightly lower angle buttress just right of PBR. Follow layback edges to a thin crack above an overlap. Climb the thin crack (crux) to a face crack above (10a).

Protection

Full range of sizes.

Photos

Zacks  
super fun climb, small gear up top. Had stainless anchors Jul 17, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
I like the video. Great climbing and camerawork.

The upper finger crack looks really nice. Makes me want to get up there.

Please get a video of Keith's Crack -- I want to go do that one too (but might need some beta)! Nov 6, 2013
Douglas T  
 
Yeah, a bit self indulgent posting videos of myself. Oh well. Get out and climb it.

Belayer - Dave Repnick
Camera - John Fisk
youtube.com/watch?v=q5qecDk… Nov 6, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
I don't think anyone climbed this for maybe 10 years. Derek Pearson remembers climbing it maybe 10 years ago. I was using the anchor while pulling bushes out of the corner for PBR, and would get sidetracked by the upper crack on Folsom. I pulled Salal, ferns and other bushes down to the big ledge and then John Tetzlaff scrubbed the lower portion. The easier crack on the right side of the shield is pretty fun too, also cleaned that out.
The anchor is 3/8" rusty bolts, seem pretty solid, but need to be upgraded to SS.

In my opinion the crux is the crazy layback over the lower bulge, committing and burly. Nov 6, 2013
Douglas T  
 
Repeating what Lukic said, THANKS to whoever cleaned the line. On lead, this line may feel a little stiff for the grade at first, but tames down with a little work. Reminiscent of ZOOM, with a strenuous start and fun knobs higher up. Unlike ZOOM, just about every inch of the climb is protectable.

It isn't obvious at first when it's best to kick out to the tips-crack, but don't continue up the wider, easier climbing once the thin crack becomes an option. Get out there and squish your fingertips into the crack and smear the knobs. Aug 24, 2013
lukic
 
lukic  
 
Many thanks to whomever cleaned this route. Awesome. Aug 2, 2013
Jessica T
seattle, wa
  5.10c
Jessica T   seattle, wa
  5.10c
Awesome route. Gear to 1.5". Small gear protects upper crack. 2013 route is clean. Jul 28, 2013