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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,306 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Climb the short handcrack as in Flippo. Then traverse left to the right-facing, flaring chimney. Climb the chimney (5.8), then continue up the crack-flake system to the roof. Jam over the roof (5.9, though may be easier due to recent cleaning) into a corner, and continue up the corner for about 20 feet.

The route can be toproped using the chained anchor atop Robin's Ramp.

Location

Same start as Flippo, but follows line left.

Protection

Finger-sized to fist-sized cams.

Photos

mark webster
Gig Harbor
mark webster   Gig Harbor
This route has a little bit of everything. Starts with a fun 5.8 hand jam, then traverses the ledge into an offwidth. I had a camalot 4 and a 5, which made it very safe. I have big hands so I got great fist jams low down, then had to do a couple double hand stacks to move up. But the toe jams and knee bars are quite secure. The roof can be made safe with some 1/4" to half inch cams. But save a few of those for up higher too. I think the true crux is 15 feet above the roof where all the holds vanish for a while and you have to do a long side pull, gaston in a wide runnel. I actually got a chicken wing up there. Small cams are essential there also. So yeah, bring all your gear. Super fun route! We were up there Labor Day, 2017 and saw no one all day...and it's shady. Thanks to whoever put in the via ferata with all the iron rungs and ropes! Sep 5, 2017
Just for clarification, there is a separate chained anchor about 10' left of and higher, but kind of back in the bushes, above the Robin's Ramp anchors at the top of Flippo. This adds more opportunity for a couple parties to climb this section simultaneously. Groups coming down from the Blue Tile Lounge (Jaded, Waiting for the Sun) sometimes try and use this anchor as a rappel station though since it's higher, so be aware of traffic in both directions.

It does have way better vantage for Hips and Valleys though. Sep 3, 2017
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Pulled a nice loose block off of this today above the flare, there might be a better jam there now. Everything else seemed solid. Super fun route. Jun 3, 2017
RodrigoB  
 
Good and diverse climbing. While a single #4 C4 might be sufficient for the chimney/offwidth, a #5 C4 makes it feel pretty comfortable. I got sucked to the left of the arete closing in on the anchors and it definitely felt like the crux of the route to me. I didn't end at the anchors to Robin's Ramp. It goes with reasonable protection either way. May 17, 2016
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.9
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.9
Thanks for cleaning this! We really enjoyed it. Recent rains have re-deposited a bit of dirt in the finger crack but not enough to render it unusable--I scraped out some with my nut tool but that section will likely need more attention after the wet season to keep it in such nice condition.

I had only a #4 for the chimney which made it feel a little heady (a #5 would have helped, as the #4 was tipped) but it sure is fun --climbs more like an offwidth than a true chimney and facing toward town gives you more options. While the chimney is much more enjoyable than Butt Lips on Aries, I would not call it 5.8. Closer to an honest 5.9, in my opinion. The moves into and through the dihedral were also good.

Extras in blue/green alien size come in handy once you hit the dihedral. Sep 14, 2013
This route is really clean now. I removed the last bit of root ball in the upper part of the dihedral in May I think. Dirt from that just fell through the lower crack in the dihedral which used to be choked. First time I tried this about five years ago I couldn't even get into the dihedral because there was nothing for hands. Now there are great finger locks and good (but small) gear.

I just lead it for the first time on Thursday after having TR'd many times. The chimney which is much easier than Butt-lips on Aries was my concern on gear. I just had to get my head around it and go. It took a #5 but I wish I'd had Geoff's #4 too. Jerry followed with approach shoes he wants to take to the Bugaboos and did fine.

This route is no harder than Timberjack, the upper pitch of Magic Fern, or Aries/Lizard so yes, I think it is a 5.8. It is easier than Toxic Shock, Wet Dream and Battered Sandwich and Plumb Pudding which Geoff agrees is a 5.9. It has great variety and fun moves - I'll keep coming back. Jul 21, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
This is a fun route and much cleaner as of 2013. fingers to chimney( 1# 4 camalot) tipped out at first, slide it up and back to good spot. to hands to fingers through a roof, to some techy thin crack stemming. I think the chimney is 5.7 and going past the roof is 5.8. One will want several very small cams for the thin crack after the roof. Jun 25, 2013