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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd
Page Views: 1,058 total, 26/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Aug 4, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

I started cleaning this route in a driving blizzard late winter 2014 and it took some excavating to clear loose flakes.

Start in shallow left facing corner/seam, the crux comes low and is a balance step up over to hold on arete, especially hard if you are under 6' tall, some fun moves next, and then follow left traversing undercling until possible to go up toward tree. Continue up crack system, trending left then right to anchor at 100 ft. There is descent climbing for 20' above there, and 25' of trees and dirt above that, if you want to go up to the Blue Tile Lounge.

Alternate start in offwidth on the left that requires slab crossing which will add a bolt soon.

Location

Currently the furthest route left on the main wall. There is a slab with an off width crack on the left, and this goes up the seam on the right.

Protection

standard rack to 2". extra in finger sizes.Brass nuts could be used in lower seam. Green Alien or the exact size protects the starting crux move. Brass nuts above this move, or blue Alien. Extra finger size Aliens for many discontinuous cracks on upper half Bolted anchor with rap chains at top.

Photos

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
This route is sweet! So many cool juggy flake system switches and moves over bulges. I did a lot of cleaning on lead (everything you need is clean) but the pitch is still scruffy, bring a brush and give back!

The first move is a little spooky. A black totem seemed to fit pretty well (I don't have a green alien). Brassies are useful after the hard first move. You'll want plenty of small nuts and cams for the rest of the pitch as well.

So that you don't end up off route like me: From the tree on the route go left and then right around a bush. Head left along a juggy flake system on a slabby ramp until you can pull a reachy move over a bulge using another cool protruding flake. Anchors are at the dead tree above and to the right. Don't go too far left on the ramp, it goes nowhere! Once you pull the starting moves the rest of the route is full of hidden jugs and is probably 5.8+. Super fun! Jun 6, 2017