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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Avant Gardener T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Self in a Thousand Disguises S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd
Page Views: 1,188 total · 25/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Aug 4, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper pitches of the Diamond Details

Description

I started cleaning this route in a driving blizzard late winter 2014 and it took some excavating to clear loose flakes.

Start in shallow left facing corner/seam, the crux comes low and is a balance step up over to hold on arete, especially hard if you are under 6' tall, some fun moves next, and then follow left traversing undercling until possible to go up toward tree. Continue up crack system, trending left then right to anchor at 100 ft. There is descent climbing for 20' above there, and 25' of trees and dirt above that, if you want to go up to the Blue Tile Lounge.

Alternate start in offwidth on the left that requires slab crossing which will add a bolt soon.

Location

Currently the furthest route left on the main wall. There is a slab with an off width crack on the left, and this goes up the seam on the right.

Protection

standard rack to 2". extra in finger sizes.Brass nuts could be used in lower seam. Green Alien or the exact size protects the starting crux move. Brass nuts above this move, or blue Alien. Extra finger size Aliens for many discontinuous cracks on upper half Bolted anchor with rap chains at top.

Photos

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
This route is sweet! So many cool juggy flake system switches and moves over bulges. I did a lot of cleaning on lead (everything you need is clean) but the pitch is still scruffy, bring a brush and give back!

The first move is a little spooky. A black totem seemed to fit pretty well (I don't have a green alien). Brassies are useful after the hard first move. You'll want plenty of small nuts and cams for the rest of the pitch as well. Jun 6, 2017

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