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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: U Lukic, J Tetzlaff, D Taylor
Page Views: 293 total, 6/month
Shared By: lukic on Aug 2, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

I'm hoping for input to the rating since the crux felt very height dependent and I suck at figuring out ratings anyways.

Start in the same hand crack as for Hips and Valleys, but instead of going up the chimney, go up to the right in the shallow corner and continue up the face via stemming and some delicate features over a small roof and to the chains for Robin's Ramp.

It is also possible to go up the chimney for Hips and Valleys and cut in above the crux for a much easier variation and is easily TRed by doing Robin's Ramp. The crux may seem a bit contrived due to the proximity of Hips and Valleys, but bolts were placed where sound rock could be found which was quite close to Hips and Valleys.

Location

Shares the start for Hips and Valleys.

Protection

5 QDs, couple of slings, nuts and a couple of cams to #2BD

Photos

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Finally got around to doing this. Super fun movement on a slightly contrived line. There's some tricky beta for the crux that makes it much easier than I originally expected. Jun 6, 2017
Devin Bishop  
 
Enjoyable moves, although a somewhat contrived crux. If you cut over to Hips and Valleys and then back (which feels natural given the bolt placements), the difficulty is more like 10c. Aug 11, 2015
Douglas T  
 
Fun climbing that's very tough to give a grade to. Well protected crack, face and stemming. Stretch out a bit before you start this one. 5.11- is a good starting point. You might find it harder or easier, but close enough. Aug 24, 2013
drsoc
  5.11-
drsoc  
  5.11-
Crux is hard for someone 5'4", but I'll work something out. :-)

11- sounds about right, but being short, I could give it an 11b? Fun stemming up higher! Surprisingly possible moves at the bottom. Aug 5, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Great job on the route.

I tried TRing it last year, and thought it had some pretty hard and dynamic moves near the bottom. So, it might be harder than 11-, but I'll have to go back and try again. Aug 2, 2013