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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: E. Lund, B. Swee
Page Views: 1,728 total, 17/month
Shared By: Todd Miller on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This route has really fun, positive knobs. Somewhat committing getting to the first bolt - trust your feet on the knobs.

Follow the knobs up the face to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This route is located on the small crag known as The Blue Tile Lounge, just above the Mid Wall. Approach via Robin's Ramp and continue climbing past the chains on that route through some bushes to a tree belay. Walk up the slab to the base of the route.

Protection

3 bolts plus a green Alien (or red C3 or blue TCU) to protect the start. The bolts are all right where you need them.

Bring a red Alien (or orange TCU) and a green C3 (or blue Alien or purple TCU) to set up a belay at the base.

A good strategy for getting down is to belay the follower from the anchors at the top, then rappel from the anchors all the way down to the chains at the top of Robin's Ramp, then rappel from Robin's Ramp to the ground.

NOTE: We made this rappel with a 70m rope and had rope to spare - haven't tried it with a 60m rope.

Photos

Oh yeah I forgot to go back up and put links on the chains. Thanks Bill for cleaning those routes.

That's a great spot. We camped up at the lounge when Eric Brent and me put up the routes. Nice hangout . Jul 23, 2013
Last summer was my first time up to Blue Tile Lounge and the amount of lichen on the route made me think it hadn't been climbed in several years - reading the comments I see I was mistaken. I scrubbed Waiting for the Sun and substantially cleaned French Canadian.

Last weekend Waiting For the Sun is still clean but French Canadian is blooming - literally. On Thursday July 18th I finally red-pointed Waiting. I brought my moccosims (sp?) and committed to the final move to the anchor. Stiff 5.9, but fun and great views from that area.

The weak link at the anchor is that the big chains are held to the hangers by aluminum non-locker 'biners that are showing a little corrosion. My std size quick links I carry won't fit around the fat chain. I'll look for larger quick links that will fit. Jul 21, 2013
I cleaned the tat off the anchor to Jaded and Waiting for the Sun they both have chain belays. Apr 7, 2012
sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
This route stays wet for quite some time. There is a moss "carpet" on the slab at the base, so if you commit to climbing above Robin's Ramp and it's wet, the downclimb becomes non-trivial. I had to leave some cord and a biner to get down when I checked it out this spring. Jun 15, 2009