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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 924 ft
GPS: 47.819, -121.572 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 14,107 total, 133/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

This is the cliff directly above the Winkie Dinkie Cliff. It has some high quality routes with very little traffic. It is fairly shaded.
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Getting There

There are at least five ways to access Mid Wall.

1) Take the Seamstress route after hiking up to K-Cliff (see images linked to route).

2) Hike up all the way from K-Cliff using fixed lines as described below:

Traverse right along the base of K-Cliff and follow the trail up the gully past the Lip. Traverse along the faint trail above the Black Wall to the base of Winkie Dinkie. Pass Gorilla my Dreams and walk towards the top of Breakfast of Champions, keeping an eye out for a gully on the left. Go up the gully and through the tunnel with the fixed line. Now you are on top of Julie's Roof. Follow a second fixed line and a goat trail to a blocky narrow passage. (If you take this third fixed line down you will access all of the top of the Lower Wall.) If you go up the fixed line, you will be at the Middle Wall.

Update: June 2014: There appears to be no fixed lines on this route now.

3) Via Winkie Dinkie cliff. Climb something at the Great Northern Slab, Princely Ambitions, or hike in from the trail between K-Cliff and the Lip, and then climb Gorilla My Dreams (or the above fixed lines) to get up there.

4) Do a route that either tops out on the Narrow-Arrow end of the Lower Wall, or the wall left of Orc Tower.

5) Hike the trail that goes to the Upper Town Wall (from the Country), taking the first turnout left. Where the Blues Cliff trail forks off left, stay right and continue across the top of the Lower Wall. This is a fun hike, but be careful about the dilapidated stairs. Also use caution on the exposed wooden bridge.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mid Wall

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Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Cassie, I added a bolted rap station on Sunday Sept. 3rd. to the top of Seamstress, took down the old rope on Saturday. Sep 7, 2017
A couple notes on access:

The fixed line above Gorilla My Dreams (Winkie Dinkie Cliff) is aged, tattered, and worn. Also it's displaced off into the bushes to it can't be reached from the Gorilla ledge. The tree anchor is still solid for rapelling down to the ledge or to the bottom of the cliff for a descent, so coming down it's all fine but unless that hand line gets replaced, this isn't a useful access route up to the Mid Wall right now. It's a true cliff and dirty to boot, so there isn't a clear way of getting up it without a good solid line, and even then a hand line may be sketchy and insufficient.

The Seamstress route (5.7) which is lookers left up trail of the Winkie Dinkie Cliff is dirty but solid and a pretty quick approach. The route description is accurate, and it's about a 50-60' climb in total depending on where you start. The top anchors are 1. a bolted chain on the inside of a slab of rock at the top of the route, and 2. a burly tree that's been slung by climbing rope with hard points. The blue fixed line was getting cut by the edge of the rock, so it was scrapped at some point but then later tied into the 2 anchors to extend it out closer to the top and around the rock edge. Even with it's BFK master point, it's not redundant so faith would be resting in the solid nature of both anchors. Recommendation is to add a separate personal anchor for the belayer and an additional attachment point from the belay device to the belayer as a form of redundancy if you're going to hang your belay device out on the extension. The quality of that section of rope appears fine though and not aged or worn, core intact.

I wouldn't, however, use this as a rappel. Better to double back and head out to Winkie Dinkie Cliff if no one's climbing it. Sep 3, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Slim, no, the fixed rope left of Winky is mine, there is a steep narrow gully right of Winky that has or had a fixed rope. Aug 18, 2016
slim    
geoff, are you talking about the fixed rope maybe 50 feet left of the winky dink cliff? Jul 6, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
I did the fixed rope approach again that is left of the Dihedral wall ( above Princely Ambitions) and right of Winky Dinky. I strongly advise not to go this way, too dangerous to knock loose stuff onto cliff below. I was up there in the winter when I was pretty sure nobody would be below. Jul 5, 2016
The fixed lines are back as of May 30, 2015. Kind of a sketchy approach, though, in my opinion. The steps equipped with fixed lines are not likely to clean up with use and there seems like a good chance that any debris kicked down the gullies could fall down into the GNS area.

The bridge/stairs route via The Country was much more pleasant, in my opinion, but the bridge is pretty sketchy. Does anyone know the history of its installation or any folks that would be interested in helping to replace it? Seems like if you had a dozen people helping out, it wouldn't be too hard to haul replacement 2x12 timber and decking. May 31, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Geoff, I updated the approach description above. Jun 20, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Approach:
There is no fixed rope above Princely/ Champions.
If you topped out Beak, Beak you would find a fixed line above St. Francis ledge.
The old trail is really long compared to Gorilla or Seamstress approach. It is past 1/2 way to UTW, not recommended unless you want a long hike in the dark woods. Jun 20, 2014
Jessica T
seattle, wa
Jessica T   seattle, wa
Great area for a hot day. Jul 28, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
A fun way to reach this wall is to do the two pitches of Princely Ambitions (5.9), walk up and left on a short trail, then do Gorilla my dreams (5.10a). (GMD is on the Winkie Dinkie cliff, just above the Free Area.) From the top anchor on GMD, hand-over-hand your way up a short section with a fixed rope, then walk another short trail. Apr 10, 2012

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