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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Avant Gardener T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liquid Luck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,220 total · 27/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


75 Opinions

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Description

This is an awesome layback climb up a right facing corner with finger sized gear. The climbing is fairly sustained, but a few small feet allow for rests and oportunities to place gear.

There is a fun corner to the right that you can TR from the anchors. That corner, PBR, checks in at around 5.10.

Location

This is the obvious right facing corner on the right side of the cliff.

Rappel with 1 rope from 2 bolt anchor

Protection

Protection to 0.5 camalot, with extras in the blue and yellow tcu size. There is a good 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Matt Schonwald
Seattle, WA
 
Matt Schonwald   Seattle, WA
 
The Cummins topo lists it as 5.10A, which I would agree it is harder, more sustained than Godzilla.

The upper half is the business with a 20' section of yellow/orange TCU or .3 & .4 camolots with limited feet. The last 15' eases off to the anchors. Oct 20, 2013
Ben Kunz  
 
Great climb! Thanks to those who have cleaned these routes! I can imagine without enough traffic (which I'm pretty sure they don't get), these climbs get pretty dirty. Aug 27, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8+
I don't think this is any harder then 5.9, and it would probably be 5.8 in Ca. May 16, 2015
Ben Kelley
Maple Falls, WA
Ben Kelley   Maple Falls, WA
geoff georges, I completely agree. It's so quality and so short that it could easily be 5.8. Jun 27, 2016
Zacks  
Did not thing it was 10a (definatley not at index) with "gear to .5" i was expecting more variety of gear, had a hard time finding a place for a .3 never did fit a .5 but you could sew this up with .4s (BD) couple good rest stances made it easy to place nuts a few times Jul 17, 2016
The route had a tree on it when Cummins put it in his guide (and when I first led it years later). Great warm up for the harder lines nearby. Gear to .5. You can also continue up from the anchor to the PBR anchor if you want to TR the best line on the Middle Wall. Gear to .75 Jun 11, 2018

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