Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Josh Lowy, Nate Redon
Page Views: 1,159 total, 180/month
Shared By: Nate Redon on May 11, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Begin up Robin's Ramp and traverse along a rail to clip the first bolt. A series of 3 technical boulder problems along a seam (bolts) gets you to a "jug" and final mantle. From there, insecure but much easier climbing along the seam brings you to an open corner. Make a heady move and stem up to the anchors. Blue tile lounge is just above if you wanna go there.

An alternate start goes up Plum Pudding and uses good edges to clip the 2nd bolt and traverse left. This might be a better option for shorter climbers to avoid a reachy move.

There are currently permadraws on two of the bolts because I misjudged some clipping stances. I'll move the bolts when I have time, but the permadraws fix the issue for now.

Location

Seams Alright follows the arete between Robin's Ramp and Plum Pudding. Look for the bolts.

Protection

5x bolts ; Bring some ~.3 sized gear for after the crux. It's also possible to protect the final corner with a tiny brass nut (I used #2 offset) but the fall is clean if you don't bring it. The alternate start requires a little more gear.

Bolted anchor with rap rings on top. A 60m rope should get you down.
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
  5.11+
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
  5.11+
Such a great route. The line is beautiful and the movement engaging and varied. One of the better arete climbs I've done! It took a bit to figure out the final crux but it's not too bad with the right beta. Aug 29, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.11d
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.11d
Sweet route! The cruxes are bouldery with some longer reaches on poor slab feet, but the rock offers some options for shorter climbers.
If you're attempting this route I think the .4 on Plum Pudding is necessary the first go, to learn how to clip the first bolt, but I think I would have been comfortable without it. After busting out the crux sections, the fourth bolt is slightly out of reach, but the gap can be protected by a .3 cam. The brass offset at the stem near the top fits, but seems like it could be flicked out pretty easily. Not sure there are any other better options though.
Get on it and crush! Jun 4, 2017
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
 
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
 
I did a little more cleaning today Adam, a tiny brass nut (#2) protects the final moves well but the fall is clean if you don't have it. A 60m rope does get you down as well. May 19, 2017
Nice! I was looking at this thing last season, wondering.... I'm psyched to hop on it! May 14, 2017
Adam Sultan
Seattle
  5.11+
Adam Sultan   Seattle
  5.11+
An awesome new route with amazing movement and classic Index improbable climbing. While maybe a .12 somewhere else, I think 11d is very fair for Index and none of the 3 boulder problems feel harder than V4.

As of now, after the last bolt, the thin crack running along the final slabby corner to the chains cannot be protected until the dirt gets cleared out. When it is cleared out, a small brass offset or a red (maybe yellow) ballnut should easily protect the insecure move to get established into the corner. A fall after the last bolt, however, is unlikely if you've managed to get that far. I'm pretty sure you need a 70m rope to get off, there didn't seem to be too much excess rope after I rapped which makes me think this pitch is around 32m or so.

Hop on this route guys and give it love! May 11, 2017