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Routes in Mid Wall

All my Friends are Aliens T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Avant Gardener T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Behind the Green Door T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Ribbon variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinky Twinkies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flee Fly Flue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flippo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folsom Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips and Valleys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaded T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Keith's Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lawn Rake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MW crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Self in a Thousand Disguises S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
PBR T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Pudding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robin's Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seams Alright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamstress (access route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stems & Valleys T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems and Leaves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thang T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waiting for the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 612 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 27, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: 2018 Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper pitches of the Diamond Details

Description

Climb up the outside of the large flake. The crux is midway up the flake. At the top of the flake, trend up and left to the belay.

Location

Left side of crag, on large flake resting against wall.

Protection

Gear needed for the upper half, though the crux section at the bottom is bolted.

Photos

Missing hanger on 2nd bolt. Aug 1, 2013
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.9
This route probably hadn't been climbed in a while before today. I replaced the second hanger and cleaned the upper half to make it worth it (but the upper bit is still pretty dirty).

It climbs best if you go up the flake (clean) and then left across the top to the splitter hand crack, staying on the arete above (good gear). Stay out of the bushy corner as much as possible.

This route is at least 2 stars in my opinion and lets you hang a top rope on Keith's Crack / Wild Boar. May 19, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Fantastic route! The movement on the flake at the start is techy and fun to warmup on. The top doesn't need much protection, and drops in difficulty. Also extremely photogenic ;)
No problems with any of the bolts/hangers. Jun 4, 2017
Iā€™d put the grade at height dependent 5.10a/b.

Bolt 3 has a perfect stance to clip, unless you're under 5'6". Then you'll have to work way harder than me.

If you are 5ā€™6ā€ or shorter, having a stiff quickdraw that can extend your clipping reach a foot or so at bolt #3 will make this a totally safe climb. Otherwise there is some real decking potential. Make sure you're belayer is on point.

After bolt 3 it's easy-peasy. Jun 11, 2018

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