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PBR

5.10b, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 232 votes
FA: (Full, to tree at top) Geoff Georges
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Middle Town Walls > Mid Wall

Description

Corner climbing with small roof. Involves jamming and stemming.

One can toprope the bottom half from the Plum Pudding anchors.

Location

Major corner between Plum Pudding and Folsom Blues.

Protection

To 3". More in the smaller sizes. Anchor with mussy hooks at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lower part of PBR (10b). (Photo from RCNW.net)
[Hide Photo] Lower part of PBR (10b). (Photo from RCNW.net)
Seth leading the initial layback corner of PBR
[Hide Photo] Seth leading the initial layback corner of PBR
on my first lead of PBR.( onsight including moss)
[Hide Photo] on my first lead of PBR.( onsight including moss)
Topo of central region of Mid Wall, showing PBR. Modified from Clint Cummins's guidebook.
[Hide Photo] Topo of central region of Mid Wall, showing PBR. Modified from Clint Cummins's guidebook.
Start of PBR. Although most apparently layback this section I find finger locking straight in and stemming with foot chips to be much easier.
[Hide Photo] Start of PBR. Although most apparently layback this section I find finger locking straight in and stemming with foot chips to be much easier.
overview of the right side of mid town wall
[Hide Photo] overview of the right side of mid town wall
Leading the upper part of PBR - stemming before moving right into the upper section allows a good rest and to place gear, despite being fully stretched out.
[Hide Photo] Leading the upper part of PBR - stemming before moving right into the upper section allows a good rest and to place gear, despite being fully stretched out.
A sunny fall day on PBR.
[Hide Photo] A sunny fall day on PBR.
Upper part of PBR (10b). (Photo from RCNW.net)
[Hide Photo] Upper part of PBR (10b). (Photo from RCNW.net)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] AUG. 2013 2) 1/2" SS bolts and Fixe hangers with chain at 100' top out of PBR.

I have heard from a few folks that climbed this that think it is harder than 10b. If you climb this, rate it here and maybe the consensus will clear this up. The start is strenuous layback, green/yellow Alien, flaring hand, tricky few moves to gain good hold, hands to fingers around bulge ( face holds for high foot) stump/dirt, then groove to stem over bulge, large crack out right, more stemming till easy upper corner to anchor Aug 20, 2013
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Fantastic addition to the mid wall! The upper third (from the tree stump up) isn't as clean as the start but once it is polished up with a bit more traffic and scrubbing this line is sure to become classic. Sep 14, 2013
Ben Kunz
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Thanks for cleaning Geoff et al!! Feels 10b to me. Aug 27, 2014
James Ellis
Bellingham, WA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Awesome route. I thought it felt slightly harder than Folsom Blues (or at least more sustained), so I give it at .10c. Fantastic climbing the whole way! Sep 15, 2014
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] taking advantage of the spring weather in February to complete cleaning PBR. Used a cordless sawsall to remove the stump and roots, yikes that is hard work. Hammer and chisel too. Climbed it 3 times, really great however very wet. Feb 18, 2015
Mark Straub
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This route is fantastic! Perfect and varied climbing all the way, would be swarmed if it were on the lower wall. I hope there is enough traffic to keep this route clean! Jun 7, 2015
Devin Bishop
Granite Falls, WA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Climbed this several times recently, both on top rope and lead. Rakkup Index Guide has this as 5.10a. I think it's at least 10b, possibly 10c depending on finger size. I can't fit my fingers into .3 Camalot cracks, that's a very tenuous size for me. Fortunately, most of the tiny stuff is .4 Camalot. Still, rather strenuous at the initial start. Folsom Blues was harder, but certainly not as sustained. Aug 26, 2015
[Hide Comment] Great climb. When accounting for the more sustained nature of the route I found it to be more difficult than Folsom. Thanks for the gardening work. May 7, 2016
[Hide Comment] thought this was easier than tatoosh, definatley less pumped. Might have a height dependant move or 2 that would adjust the grade? Jul 17, 2016
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I climbed this again, maybe just because it is now clean it seems easier. This was the first time i lead it without the tree stump and crack around it clean of dirt. It seemed more like 10a to me now. Sep 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] PBR is to the Middle Wall what Japanese Gardens is to the LTW, DHLA is to the UTW, Kite Flying Blind is to The Country. It’s simply the best climb of the sector.

I think this climb demonstrates the beauty and frustration of climbing at Index. It takes gear bottom to top, requires fingers to hands crack technique, and even some quality stemming here and there. It gets climbed enough to keep it clean so the efforts of those removing moss and trees early on have their efforts sustained (Thanks JT and GG).

As for the grade, my personal opinion is 5.10b/c or even d, depending on finger size in the first 20 feet. Honestly, I could name at least 4 legit 5.10d’s at Index that I find easier than this climb. Hell, there’s 2 - 5.11a’s within 60 feet that I find easier than this climb. I still don’t know what it’s like to climb this route without blood dripping from my knuckles.

4 Stars. Lots of finger size cams Jun 11, 2018
Undocked Piggies
Nor Cal
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] I would agree with Douglas in that this climb seemed to be the best between itself, Plum Pudd, and Folsom Blues. Such great pitch! There is no move quite as strenuous as the opening of FB, but PBR is nice and sustained all the way up—more so than FB. Jun 4, 2019
Heemun K
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite 5.10s at Index, probably because of the variety (pumpy lieback at start, fun stemming, different sized crack). I approached from Rhythm Cliffs with the new bridge bypass. Jul 7, 2023
Nate Scharping
Tacoma, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] 3-4 .4s probably wouldn't go unused on this climb. Aug 11, 2025