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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Sept 22, 2007, Jonathan Nickel
Page Views: 636 total, 10/month
Shared By: Johan on Sep 6, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Thin but bolted face climbing gains more featured face climbing that leads to a tight finger crack slashing the headwall. Very enjoyable.

The crack is the crux, though it's easier for tall people who can make longer use of the last good foot rail.

Location

Starts at the left-most bolt line on the left side of the high dirt slope. Start on the ledge to the right of Soweto.

It's possible to set up a top-rope by rapping in from above after topping out Soweto. (The Rocinha anchor should not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums.)

Protection

5 bolts and smaller cams. Probably best to bring gear to 1" or so. Quick-clip anchor.

Photos

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Jay Harrison
  5.10b/c
Jay Harrison  
  5.10b/c
The crux is a crap shoot; dyno for the right spot and it's in the bag, hit it wrong and you're whippin'. Beware that thin slot, it doesn't hold gear well. I've watched a long whipper with gear-phht along the way.
This route earns its classic rating more from the wonderful movement leading to the crux than for the crux itself, but that's icing on the cake. Dec 14, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
cool climb. best line at shanty ive been on. agree that the finger crack crux at the top is easier if u are tall, which i am. it climbs more like a 9+/10a for me i guess. nice finger locks too. Sep 10, 2012