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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total, 2/month
Shared By: J. Serpico on Nov 2, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Climb through the bouldery overhang using the left leaning crack. Follow the crack left to the center, then follow next crack (right leaning) right or go straight up to the right leaning crack after pulling the bulge (harder). Finally, follow the next left leaning crack to the cliff top. Top out is a bit tricky after the easy middle section.

Location

At the opposite end up the face (right side) from Pug Love at the left leaning crack that starts above a bulge/overhang.

Protection

Small cams, tricams and a set of nuts. Nothing bigger than a brown tricam or green (0.75) Camalot. There are chains on the left and cold shuts on the right. DO NOT TOP ROPE THROUGH THE FIXED HARDWARE. USE YOUR OWN WEBBING AND CARABINERS.

Photos

J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
 
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
 
I'll definitely let you know about the anchor conditions. Thus far, I haven't seen anything that looked unsafe in the 5 times I've been there this year. Definitely one of my favorite places to climb. As a side note, my partner set up what I thought was an interesting (and safe) setup on the cold shuts for top roping. He used a cordelette directly through the shuts tied off with an 8 at a masterpoint. This eliminated the two biners I usually attach to the setup using the same masterpoint setup. Nov 4, 2014
Regarding top roping through the fixed gear: I realize that this is a polarizing topic, but from a safety standpoint I wouldn't recommend attaching carabiners to the drop-in style cold shuts found on many of the routes at Shanty Cliff. I suppose it might work to girth hitch or clove hitch a sling to the cold shut, but a carabiner runs the risk of twisting and coming unclipped. I would suggest using the cold shuts directly in this case. On a side note, if any of the fixed gear at Shanty is looking worn, let me know and I'll see about getting it replaced. Nov 3, 2014
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
 
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
 
Fun route, the start is definitely bouldery and more strenous than the rest of the route. Stick with it and you'll have plenty of chance to recover once you get your feet onto the slab. I think this route is about 5.6, and Pug Love was much easier. Protection is the same for both. Abundant but small. Nov 2, 2014