Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
Routes in Shanty Cliff
|(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|Page Views:||80 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Dec 14, 2012|
DescriptionClimb up the inside corner facing left, moving out onto the face, up to another left-facing corner above an overhang. Make a reachy move to circumvent the OH, then traverse right 20' to another left-facing corner. Climb up this a ways, break out right, and climb through a final overhang to reach the top.
LocationSame as Shantytown: the left-facing corner below roofs, about 100 yards downhill of the main buttress.
ProtectionThe blokes that bolted Shantytown bolted right through the crux of this route. Mildly annoying, but the pro there is now bomber if you use the bolts. For the purist, find gear a bit higher up the left-facing corner (nuts or tiny cams), and use a long sling.
A standard rack deals with the rest, and there are plenty of opportunities for using it along the way.
One could use the anchors of one of the nearby routes; just inspect them for damage before trusting them.
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