Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Late 1990s
Page Views: 130 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 14, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the inside corner facing left, moving out onto the face, up to another left-facing corner above an overhang. Make a reachy move to circumvent the OH, then traverse right 20' to another left-facing corner. Climb up this a ways, break out right, and climb through a final overhang to reach the top.

Location

Same as Shantytown: the left-facing corner below roofs, about 100 yards downhill of the main buttress.

Protection

The blokes that bolted Shantytown bolted right through the crux of this route. Mildly annoying, but the pro there is now bomber if you use the bolts. For the purist, find gear a bit higher up the left-facing corner (nuts or tiny cams), and use a long sling.
A standard rack deals with the rest, and there are plenty of opportunities for using it along the way.
One could use the anchors of one of the nearby routes; just inspect them for damage before trusting them.

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