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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Lawyer, Williams, Dahn 1989
Page Views: 499 total, 6/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 22, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

5.8 G - Follow hand crack up and left into a book (crux), then follow this up to a rest near the raven's nest below the large roof. Head right following the arete to a series of flakes that go straight up, trending slightly left. At the top head right to a single bolt.

Location

On the left wall, at an arete with a book 40 feet up, 20 feet up from the end of the arete in a corner with a birch tree growing at the top of it (can sling for first piece).

Walkoff is back into the woods 50 feet, then option 1) over the slabby rock to the other side for the rappel on the right wall (Little Gem Diner rappel), or option 2) wander left for the walkoff which will take you a while but no rappelling required.

Protection

Gear and single bolt act as belay.

Photos

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Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Climber's right walkoff/rappel from the top of Little Gem Diner is the slightly faster descent option.

Any wasp/hornet nests on the climb? Jul 1, 2016
This is probably my favorite route at Shanty. Continuous challenge, outrageous holds, solid gear of all types, great view from the top.

Descent - I don't know if it's feasible to reach down to any of the anchors on the Rocina wall (never tried it). I've walked off the left end of the cliff (bring your approach shoes up with you) as well as walking around climbers' right to get to the Vernal Imperative anchor. Jun 30, 2016
Johan
San Francisco, CA
 
Johan   San Francisco, CA
 
Top-roping non-beta: the Rocinha anchor can not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums. Sep 6, 2012