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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: 2007
Page Views: 64 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 18, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Crux is at the bottom, but there are a few interesting moves breaking the mini-hang. Casual, fun climbing after that.
Climb up the (often dirty) left-rising crack to reach good holds to its right, mantle onto these and break the mini-hang another left-rising crack. Climb directly up the face, eschewing all possible early escapes, to top out at its apex.

Location

Right side of the bottom of a steep dirt cone below and right of the Little Gem Diner wall. Look for a left-rising vertical crack starting near ground level, becoming a dirty offwidth where it reaches a small overhang 15' up.
There is a birch tree to climber's right of the top-out, but rappelling off this will kill it. There is a downclimbable ramp a bit farther downhill.

Protection

Standard Adk. Trad Rack. No pins, bolts, or anchors. Easy to build a gear anchor slightly below the top-out.

Photos

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