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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: The Shanty Team, 2007
Page Views: 416 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 22, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

5.6 G - Start to the right of the tree on the left side of the wall. Follow right leaning crack for a move, then straight up.

Location

1 minute uphill from the Sports Arena is a pair of walls split by a class 4 gully. Pug love starts behind a tree close to the left side of the left of these walls. Rappel down.

Protection

Fixed anchor at top. Mostly small gear. Challenging lead IMO for the grade but fun because of it.

Photos

J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
I didn't find it very challenging. The start is bouldery but the big flake holds make it a hero move. The rest of it is just a moderate angle face with plentiful gear options. Until the top out. I went up the vertical (left leaning) crack in the center (right of the bolts). All was good until final moves out, which involved slab friction on the left foot and a sloped ledge mantel with the hands. Nothing positive to grip. I think exiting left or right of this would be much easier, but the gear is good at the top, so it's an interesting exit. Oct 7, 2014