Elevation: 1,948 ft
GPS: 43.536, -74.151 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,222 total · 294/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

Description

Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.

Getting There

Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.

Path reaches Shanty Slab in 10 minutes (on left). Continuing right another 5 minutes to reach Shanty Sports Arena (on right, some bolted routes). Continuing up the drainage along the cliff's base to the remainder of Main Cliff:

* Shanty Girl chimney with 3 moderate routes
* Shantytown and Gunky Route area with many roofs and orange colored rock
* Third class ramp
* Two 100 foot walls nearly facing each other (on right is Little Gem Diner, left is Hard Times)
* Main Face (Left End) low roofs (also called The Raven's Nest)
* Long, low roof 6 feet high with a short slab section just above

Past this last wall the trail continues up and then right. You can walk off nearly all the climbs here. Which exit/ramp you choose will depend on where you are on the cliff. At the top of the dike walkoff climber's left. Middle and lower sections use the third class ramp right of Little Gem Diner area. Can also rappel most routes.

Quality Climbing!

Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.

Although most of the routes are cleaned, spring runoff can bring dirt down into the climb, so it's wise to bring a small brush and maybe carry it with you (especially if leading). This is probably a good idea for any backcountry crag.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shanty Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
Circuitous Shit
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
Little Gem Diner
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Flying Friends
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Soweto
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Swampoodle
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
The Shack
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Corktown
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 17
Shantytown
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Soup Kitchen
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Slumlord
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Rocinha
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Hooverville
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Hard Times
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Circuitous Shit Main Cliff
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Little Gem Diner Main Cliff
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Flying Friends Main Cliff
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Soweto Main Cliff
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Swampoodle Shanty Sports Arena
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Shack Main Cliff
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Corktown Shanty Sports Arena
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Shantytown Main Cliff
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Soup Kitchen Main Cliff
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Slumlord Main Cliff
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rocinha Main Cliff
 13
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Hooverville Main Cliff
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hard Times Main Cliff
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Shanty Cliff »

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