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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 1,948 ft
GPS: 43.536, -74.151 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,356 total, 94/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.

Getting There

Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.

Path reaches the slabs in 10 minutes (on left). Continuing right another 5 minutes to reach the Sports Arena (on right, some bolted routes). Continuing up the dike along the cliff's base to the remainder of the wall:

  • Shanty Girl chimney with 3 moderate routes
  • Shantytown and Gunky Route area with many roofs and orange colored rock
  • Third class ramp
  • Two 100 foot walls nearly facing each other (on right is Little Gem Diner, left is Hard Times)
  • Main Face (Left End) low roofs (also called The Raven's Nest)
  • Long, low roof 6 feet high with a short slab section just above

Past this last wall the trail continues up and then right. You can walk off nearly all the climbs here. Which exit/ramp you choose will depend on where you are on the cliff. At the top of the dike walkoff climber's left. Middle and lower sections use the third class ramp right of Little Gem Diner area. Can also rappel most routes.

Quality Climbing!

Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.

Although most of the routes are cleaned, spring runoff can bring dirt down into the climb, so it's wise to bring a small brush and maybe carry it with you (especially if leading). This is probably a good idea for any backcountry crag.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shanty Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Friends
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soweto
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shantytown
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soup Kitchen
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocinha
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Flying Friends 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Soweto 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Swampoodle 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Shantytown 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Soup Kitchen 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rocinha 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Shanty Cliff »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I put a new hanger and nut on the last bolt of Hard Times today. The rest of them looked OK. Jul 30, 2016
Tim O  
Visited 9/6/15 and 9/7/15. Started up Hard Times and much to my disappointment the second to last (and possibly last as well) bolt hanger before the anchors was missing. The bolt stud was still in the rock, but no hanger. Sep 8, 2015
Has anyone climbed the fingers-to-hands jamcrack through the big overhang that is basically a direct start to Circuitous Shit? Oct 29, 2012
Bill Sacks
Sacramento, CA
Bill Sacks   Sacramento, CA
Well developed area. Flat areas to belay from, nice pathways, and plenty of bolted anchors.

nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/0… Apr 1, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
The base of the main climbing walls in the middle (two 100 foot walls that nearly face each other) is heavily eroded. I find heading to the left wall, then traversing up and right to access the right hand wall is the best approach. In the future some work will be done to shore up the base of those walls to halt the erosion taking place. Mar 22, 2012

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